Skin cancer is often misunderstood in the context of skin of color. While melanin provides some natural protection against ultraviolet radiation, it does not eliminate risk. In fact, when skin cancer occurs in deeper skin tones, it is frequently diagnosed later, often leading to more severe outcomes and even death.
Estheticians play a critical role in early awareness. While we do not diagnose, we are often the professionals who see our clients’ skin most consistently. This makes education, observation and appropriate referral essential components of ethical skin care practice.
Why Skin Cancer Is Often Missed in Skin of Color
Many clients with melanin-rich skin have been told, directly or indirectly, that they are unlikely to develop skin cancer. More often than not, most women and men of color have been told “Black don’t crack”. This misconception can delay medical evaluation when changes occur.
In skin of color:
Skin cancer is more likely to be diagnosed at later stages.
Lesions may appear in non–sun-exposed areas.
Changes are often mistaken for hyperpigmentation or scarring.
Common areas of concern include:
Palms of the hands and soles of the feet
Under and around nails
Inside the mouth or other mucous membranes
Areas of repeated friction or trauma
Behind the ears or in folds of the skin (ex: neck, legs, arms, etc.)
Since these areas are not routinely self-checked, professional observation matters.
What Estheticians Should Watch For
Staying within scope does not mean staying silent. Estheticians should note and document changes such as:
New or evolving pigmented spots
Lesions with irregular borders or uneven color
Areas that bleed, crust, itch or do not heal
Spots that look noticeably different from surrounding marks
In skin of color, concerning lesions may appear dark brown, black, gray or even colorless, making them easy to overlook.
How to Encourage a Dermatology Referral - Without Diagnosing
Clear, calm communication is key. Rather than alarming clients, estheticians should normalize medical evaluation as part of skin health.
Professional language may include:
“This area looks different from what I typically see on your skin.”
“I’ve noticed this spot hasn’t responded the way we’d expect.”
“It would be a good idea to have a dermatologist take a closer look.”
Advanced treatments should be paused in the area of concern until medical clearance is given.
Why Daily SPF Is Essential for Skin of Color
Another persistent myth is that melanin eliminates the need for sunscreen. While melanin offers some UV protection, it does not prevent DNA damage, photoaging or pigment disruption. That is where your SPF comes in.
Daily SPF helps:
Reduce cumulative UV damage
Protect against skin cancer
Prevent and manage hyperpigmentation
Support barrier function and long-term skin health
For clients treating discoloration, daily SPF is non-negotiable.
Why Mineral SPF Is Often Best for Hyperpigmentation-Prone Skin
For skin of color prone to hyperpigmentation, mineral (physical) sunscreens are typically the safest and most supportive option.
Benefits of Mineral SPF:
Reflects UV rays instead of absorbing them
Less likely to trigger inflammation
Better tolerated by sensitive or compromised skin
Lower risk of pigment rebound after treatments
Key ingredients to look for when researching mineral or physical SPF, include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Helping Clients Find the Right SPF Without Fear or Frustration
One of the biggest barriers to daily SPF use in skin of color is cosmetic elegance, specifically concerns about white cast or heavy textures.
Estheticians can empower clients by encouraging them to:
Visit retailers like Ulta or Sephora to test sunscreens in person
Apply samples directly to the jawline or cheek, not just the hand
Observe how the sunscreen looks after a few minutes of wear
Choose formulas that blend well and feel comfortable for daily use
Finding an SPF that looks good and feels good increases consistency, and consistency is what protects the skin.
Education Is Prevention
Estheticians have the opportunity to shift long-standing misconceptions around sun protection and skin cancer in skin of color. Education should be rooted in empowerment, not fear.
Clients should understand that:
Melanin does not equal immunity
Sun damage occurs year-round
Aging occurs all year-round
SPF is part of skin care, not an optional add-on
Early detection leads to better outcomes
The Esthetician’s Responsibility
While estheticians do not diagnose, we are uniquely positioned to observe changes, educate clients and advocate for preventive care. Recognizing areas of concern, referring appropriately and reinforcing daily use of mineral SPF helps protect not just the appearance of the skin, but overall health.
When skin of color is treated with intention, awareness and prevention-based care, outcomes improve on every level.
