Oncology esthetics goes beyond traditional spa treatments by addressing the specific needs and concerns of individuals undergoing cancer treatments. It’s the job of these hard-working estheticians to create and perform services that target this type of clientele—from managing skin conditions, symptoms and irritations to referring clean quality home care products. It’s crucial to provide a safe, comfortable place for these clients, ensuring their safety and helping them feel more comfortable, confident and supported throughout their journey.
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Oncology esthetics goes beyond traditional spa treatments by addressing the specific needs and concerns of individuals undergoing cancer treatments. It’s the job of these hard-working estheticians to create and perform services that target this type of clientele—from managing skin conditions, symptoms and irritations to referring clean quality home care products. It’s crucial to provide a safe, comfortable place for these clients, ensuring their safety and helping them feel more comfortable, confident and supported throughout their journey.
Not surprisingly, more than half of all cancer patients struggle with body image at some point in their cancer journey. Hair removal services, or appearance recovery, can help alleviate these issues and increase self-esteem.
Study Up
Completing a recognized oncology esthetics program and obtaining certification from a reputable organization can enhance an esthetician's credibility. A professional sugar certification is also important, and with that, the skills and experience to choose products, perfect techniques, consider all contraindications and use a more cautious approach to hair removal.
One of the most important attributes of being trained in oncology esthetics is understanding and utilizing the adaptability of protocols and services. The one-size-fits-all approach is not the appropriate choice to make with this type of clientele. Having the knowledge to revise and alter the protocols that are used for the majority of our clients is true expertise. The skills to change existing protocols and services to fit the clients’ needs is crucial in successful hair removal services for cancer clients.
Getting Started
An extensive and comprehensive health history form needs to be taken before any services can be performed. Cancer treatment and medication side effects are a huge factor in whether a service can be offered, adapted and even performed on the client. The first step is to learn what treatments have been given to the client, what stage of treatment they are currently in, the medications administered or currently taken, and any side effects they are currently experiencing.
Sanitation is especially important with this type of clientele and gloves must always be worn. Any microscopic wounds caused during hair removal services leave the skin vulnerable to viruses and bacteria. Clients can be immunosuppressed from chemotherapy, so ensure sanitation and infection control procedures are in place.
It’s always important to request a release from a physician before any spa service.
Related: Oncology in the Spa Menu
Knowing Cancer Treatments and Drugs
There are many types of cancer out there and just as many medications. Traditional treatments can include surgery, chemotherapy and other drug therapies such as targeted therapy or immunotherapy drugs and radiation.
Most chemotherapy drugs are systemic, targeting cancer cells. However, they also affect healthy fast-growing cells such as the skin, hair and nails. Not all chemotherapy drugs cause full hair loss. Some drugs cause partial hair loss or thinning, and other drugs, like targeted therapy and corticosteroids, can cause unwanted hair growth.
Also, clients who had a surgical procedure, followed by radiation to a localized area, may be treated differently than a client who has a surgical procedure, followed by chemotherapy and then radiation therapy. If the skin is inflamed, too dry, sweaty, clammy or the client bruises easily, cannot take the pressure of the sugaring technique, or the client has a low pain threshold, then any hair removal service may not be recommended.
Why Sugaring?
Sugaring is the gentlest option for medically compromised skin, and a safer alternative to waxing if offering hair removal services to clients living with cancer. Sugaring is a simpler, less painful way to remove unwanted body hair. It’s the act of pulling hair out of the roots using a paste made from sugar, lemon and water. Sugaring can be performed all over the body from the face to the toes (yes, they are sometimes hairy too).
Sugar can be used at room temperature, adding no warmth or heat to the skin. Heat can aggravate or burn sensitive skin and is contraindicated for conditions like lymphedema (especially undiagnosed lymphedema).
Sugar also only adheres to hair and dead skin, taking only that with it when removed. Wax adheres to both the skin and the hair, and it can therefore remove skin during the hair removal process increasing the risk of infection. This makes sugaring especially good if the client has sensitive skin, as it causes less pain, irritation and redness.
Sugar paste is made with all natural ingredients, even sensitive skin is usually reaction-free after the service. Another benefit of sugaring is that, unlike wax, the paste is water-soluble, so it will easily wash off the skin without leaving an oily residue behind. Lastly, the hair length does not need to be grown out as long as with waxing and the service also lasts for a longer period of time.
What to Look For
Ask all the questions and discuss the expectations of the treatment including:
- Does the client feel pain in the area they are requesting the service to be performed?
- Does the client have a proper range of motion for the desired area?
- Will body positioning be a problem for the client?
- Can the skin tolerate the ingredients and pressure of the treatment?
- Does the client have enough energy to make it through the service
- Will the client bruise too easily?
If the client is hesitant in any way after describing the process of the treatment, then do not continue the service. Patch testing an area of skin first in the same region may be necessary to make sure the client is comfortable with the procedure.
Prepping Oncology Clients
Any hair removal service works better if the skin is hydrated. Even though some cancer medications can cause chronic dryness to the skin, it is important to include this especially crucial step in the process. Drinking more water and using hydrating creams are not difficult to request for the client.
Hair removal, in general, causes trauma to the hair follicle, so the skin is likely to be red and sensitive. The use of a topical product that can soothe, hydrate and reduce inflammation in the area is vital. It is imperative that the appropriate topical product is used post-hair removal, and the client continues to use the product at home or is given guidelines to prevent further inflammation to the area.
Be mindful of the clientele and how they feel at all times. Organize room setup, tools and products for the service with consideration and modesty in mind.
Know Your Adaptations
Adaptations for this type of clientele are the following: softer sugar, proper and slower molding, shorter areas treated at one time, pulling skin taut and using short and succinct flicks to remove sugar. For sugaring this type of clientele, the process should be unhurried and gentle. Add time to the service to allow for these necessities during the treatment.
Always make sure the sugar is at room temperature or only slightly warm. The skin should be cleansed with tepid water and mild cleanser using soft cotton or gauze. Pressure should be light, and molding in the area should be gentle and slow. The flick should be short and quick, while holding the skin taut as possible.
Holding the skin taut is the single most important aspect during the treatment. Do not go over any place on the skin more than once with this clientele. The first application to one area should be the only application. Remove any residual sugar with a tepid soft towel or cloth. Finish the service with calming, soothing and hydrating moisturizers or masks.
Knowing Your Niche
This is an incredibly special niche in the esthetic industry. Oncology esthetics is a practice that takes bravery, skill, experience and patience. Sugaring is not an easy skill to master either, but it will greatly benefit your business.
This allows estheticians to service clientele that other estheticians are not able to service. These niche services create more revenue and retail sales in the business. Not to mention, the huge increase in client loyalty. Only the most compassionate and empathetic estheticians offer their treatment rooms, beds, hands and hearts to cancer clients.
Shawna Rocha is the owner of Awaken Day Spa in California and Washington. She loves helping clients with compromised and sensitive skin. Since becoming an esthetician, Rocha completed multiple advanced courses in Oncology Esthetics and Immuno-Esthetics, and she specialized in training in sensitive skin and holistic therapies. She holds several certifications, including one in NCEA and has become the director of education for Hale and Hush Skincare.
