When To Go [And Not Go] Against The Grain

When it comes to professional waxing and skin care, there are concrete rules that must be followed for client safety and comfort and for the success of the service. But are there any grey areas when you discover an element of the waxing or skin care process that works even better but it goes against what you learned? Going against the grain can lead to greater results and success, but you need to know when to push the envelope and when not to because this also may come with risks.

Estheticians have strong opinions that might have opposing views from their peers on many topics. I love to listen, learn and try new techniques to see if there is a better way to achieve an even better result. Through educating others, I also learn. As a visionary, I like to question the norm and see if there is something we might be missing as a whole. However,  I always say that if you are given any advice that you don’t agree with, let it gently float off into the universe. Controversial topics are no stranger to the esthetic arena, but when is there room for flexibility and when is there no room for error? Can going against the grain elevate the client experience or create a catastrophe? Here are some example when it is ok to go against the grain and when it isn't.

Go: Steam In A Facial

Some clients love steam, while others feel claustrophobic or may be on the verge of an asthma attack. As a classically trained esthetician, steam has always been incorporated into the facial procedure. Typically, steam is utilized after the exfoliation step but before extractions while using a desincrustation solution.

For sensitive skin, we may keep the steam farther away, but do we ever skip the steam entirely? We do not usually, but we should. Steam can cause broken capillaries. For those with rosacea or sensitive skin, steam can potentially cause or worsen broken capillaries due to the increased blood flow and heat. Steam can also cause dehydration. Although steam is meant to hydrate, it can sometimes strip the skin of its natural oils, resulting in dryness or exacerbating existing dryness.

While steam can help open pores, it might also aggravate acne in some individuals by increasing oil production or causing bacteria to spread. With a good desincrustation solution, you can easily perform extractions without the use of steam but instead using a warm wet towel. If looking for hydration, hydrating the skin is easily achieved with a hydrating mask and hyaluronic acid serums. For sensitive skin, skip the steam.

No Go: Sanitation

Following your state’s laws, rules and regulations takes precedence over all else. Sanitize your hands and surfaces before and after every client. Disinfect all surfaces and touchpoints before and after every client including door handles, light switches and products. Bonus points for adding an air purifier and adding disinfectant to your laundry. Never double dip the spatula when waxing and always wear gloves.

Go: Acids Post Waxing

Am I really recommending applying an AHA or BHA immediately after waxing? When following manufacturer’s directions for post waxing products designed for ingrown hair, bumps, and irritation, you will commonly be instructed to apply the product 24-48 hours after waxing. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions.

For areas that are prone to breakouts or irritation post waxing, like the upper lip or the bikini area, immediately applying a salicylic, glycolic or lactic based post waxing product will reduce the chance that the client will breakout or experience ingrown hair plus the irritation will resolve sooner. While it seems counterintuitive to apply an exfoliating product to freshly waxed skin, it works. Just proceed with caution, paying attention to any allergies and making sure the skin is not compromised.

No Go: Waiver and Consultation

The consultation needs to happen for every client at every appointment along with a signed release or waiver approved or created by your attorney. The forms can be sent digitally to the guest a day or two before. This will reduce the risk of a client having a contraindication that could cause you to not perform the service, losing time and money. 

Go: Powder for Wax Prep

The cat’s out of the bag. Talc is a known carcinogen, meaning it can cause cancer. Skip using talc powder to prepare the skin for waxing and opt for pre-waxing oil instead. If the client is sweating, it seems illogical to use oil vs. powder before waxing, but it works. And it works better while making the waxing less painful simultaneously. This is a win-win. A better result and a safer environment for your client and yourself!

No Go: A Doctor’s Note

Anytime you are unsure if a client can be serviced, request a doctor’s note. Differing opinions reflect the personal experiences, training and philosophies of estheticians, and navigating these aspects can be crucial for delivering the best service while respecting client preferences and needs. Have fun while doing what you love and expand your ideology for even better results.

Go: Pre and Post-wax Products

We know the rules...always prepare the skin prior to waxing and apply a post-wax product to calm and soothe the skin. Rules are made to be broken, or are they?

When it comes to Brazilian waxing, it is important to first cleanse the skin with a pre-wax cleanser. Then, apply a pre-wax oil to protect the skin by creating a barrier between the skin and the wax. After waxing, it’s important to apply a post-wax oil or calming cooling gel.

But what about between the cheeks? The client is laying on the table, and you’ve just waxed between the cheeks (i.e. their butt crack). Do you apply a post wax oil? Clients report that when oil is applied between their butt cheeks, it felt slippery and slimy, and not in a good way. And cooling gel did not feel good at all. Most clients will agree. Skip the post-wax product but just cleanse after waxing to remove any wax or stickiness. Your clients will thank you. If you opt for a dash of powder after waxing between the cheeks, be sure it does not contain talc and that they aren’t wearing black. Powder tends to transfer to people’s pants when they get dressed.

Go: Proper Body Position

After surveying hundreds of clients, the number one reason they do not return to an esthetician wasn’t technique or cleanliness...it was body position. For some people who may have experienced past trauma, muscle memory can create a situation that is triggering for them. For others, they say it feels embarrassing or vulnerable. For us, it’s just another day. But for a client, it could be uncomfortable.

Your clients don’t want to be naked from the waist down in happy baby pose or while on their hands and knees. It is very easy for us to wax between the cheeks by either having the client lift one leg at a time or simply lie on their stomach. The key is to have their upper body flat and relaxed. If they are on their stomach but their chest is raised while resting on their elbows, it will tuck the butt under tighter. Instead have them lay flat.

Of course, you could also communicate with the client and ask what they feel most comfortable with. If any body position is uncomfortable emotionally or physically, don’t do it. There is always an alternative like laying on their side. Client comfort and safety is of the utmost importance.

Go: Pricing

When deciding on the price of your services, you don’t just pick a random amount. It’s strategy and math. You may even consult with a professional to be sure you are on target. Calculating product costs, researching your demographics and staying within a certain percentage of your overhead is a good strategy. Also, looking at the competition in your area and factoring in your level of experience, client retention and volume are all key points to consider. If you are independent, you have the luxury of deciding which services to offer or not. But there are times when you want to offer a service as a convenience to your clients, but it may be a thorn in your side. It’s not your passion and you dread it. For these types of services that are less frequent and not your bread and butter, price high.