As a skin therapist and educator for over 30 years, I would say that the most common question that I get from friends, family and even strangers is, “What do you recommend I do for these wrinkles and saggy jawline?” As you know, it’s not such an easy answer and requires a multi-targeted approach to address lifestyle factors, product selection and professional services.
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As a skin therapist and educator for over 30 years, I would say that the most common question that I get from friends, family and even strangers is, “What do you recommend I do for these wrinkles and saggy jawline?” As you know, it’s not such an easy answer and requires a multi-targeted approach to address lifestyle factors, product selection and professional services.
Aging Demographics
Research shows that even younger consumers are concerned about the signs of aging. Dermstore.com conducted a survey asking 2,000 American women about aging skin. The survey results showed that more than 30% of women under the age of 35 regularly use anti-aging products, and millennials aged 25–35 reported to begin to use products for skin aging benefits, classifying this behavior as “prejuvenation.” The 55 and older group reported they began to rely on age fighting products at around 47 years old.1 While this information isn’t a surprise, it does show how the approach to aging has shifted from one generation to the next, and that marketing and social media, seems to be working.
To further drive home that point, the findings show that 42% of women ages 25–34 and 54% of those aged 35–44 worry about signs of aging like lines, wrinkles and lost facial volume. More than a quarter (28%) of the millennial women surveyed under the age of 25 admitted that they regularly worry about how aging takes a toll on their skin.2 All this worry is leading to the rapid growth of the global anti-aging skin market, which is predicted to reach $13,940.3 million with a CAGR of 6% by the end of 2027.3
Anti-aging Devices
With this huge opportunity to educate and provide home care and services to our aging concerned clients, it’s fortunate that we have access to a plethora of scientific ingredients and advanced technology within reach. Before you believe that clients aren’t into using skin tools at home, or care about receiving technology in a service, know that the global skin care device market size is expected to grow at a CAGR of 12.5% to attain a value of nearly $54.2 billion by 2031.4
What can we expect to see with our younger clients and more mature clients? What technology tools should we introduce to our services? Let’s take this step-by-step through the skin stages and the factors that need to be considered.
20s
Even though this may seem a little premature, as skin pros, we know taking care of your skin and using SPF in your 20s will pay dividends for the rest of your client’s life; it’s all about prejuvenation, after all! It’s typical for your clients to experience slight dullness, and they may feel that their skin looks more tired. These issues can be caused by a poor cleansing regimen, a lack of exfoliation, not using adequate daily SPF application, as well as a lack of sleep, stress, fluctuating hormones or even genetics. The goal with clients in their 20s is to teach good habits from the get-go. The skin may not show signs of aging yet, but focusing on thorough cleansing and daily sunscreen use is the goal. As we all know, an SPF in their makeup does not count and using a minimum of SPF 30 every day come rain or shine will protect their skin from all light sources including blue light from laptops and that mounting screen time on cell phones.
When introducing pro tools, one of the fundamental tools to use and retail to promote a good cleansing routine is an ultrasonic cleansing brush. In the treatment space, ensure you are adding the benefits of a silicone ultrasonic brush to your second cleanse; use two in unison for supreme dual cleansing effects. This technology uses ultrasonic waves for skin cleansing, and rather than tugging and scratching the skin like traditional cleansing nylon bristles, today’s modern units glide effortlessly over the skin, delivering up to 20,000 Hz of ultrasonic vibration to dislodge debris and dramatically improve the efficacy of the cleanser.
Hugely popular with younger clients who are concerned about congestion and comedones are ultrasonic spatulas. These powerful, professional-grade ultrasonic skin technologies boost every stage of the professional and home care regimen. Cleansing, exfoliation, painless extractions and product applications all get a dramatic boost when using this device. Look for units with high-speed oscillations from 26,000–30,000 Hz.
Related: Tools for the New Age of Neck Aging
30s
The 30s are a transitional time; clients in their 30s are more likely to be able to invest a little more time into their skin regimen and services. In our 30s early aging signs will begin to surface because of sun exposure. Fine lines around the eyes, uneven skin color and some loss of volume in the cheeks is normal. Collagen begins to decrease in our 30s, so wrinkles and thinner skin under the eyes may reveal underlying blood vessels (i.e dark circles), which will often be the chief skin complaint. This is a key time to introduce antioxidants, skin brightening products, exfoliants and eye creams.
Pro tools to introduce include wet/dry microdermabrasion and nano tip or microexfoliation services. These devices are widely sought out and vital to encourage healthy cellular turnover, brighten skin discoloration, smooth visible lines and improve general skin health and glow. Seek out microexfoliation pen technology to deliver a precise exfoliation tailored to your clients’ exact goals, while avoiding the significant downtime often associated with more aggressive microneedling services. The microscopic pyramid shape of the nano bumps also pushes topical cells apart for greater absorption of topicals. Reputable equipment is created by FDA registered medical device manufacturers, offer ergonomic designs, sterilize single use nano tip cartridges, variable speeds and can deliver up to 16,000 RPM for supreme client comfort and results.
The new generation of microdermabrasion machines use either liquids that are run through the unit or strategically sprayed on the skin and then vacuumed up with diamond tip handpieces. Look for an engineered handpiece that will not over stretch or damage fragile skin, but instead gently lift and position the skin to meet the exfoliating diamond tips. This allows for any skin condition, turgor and Fitzpatrick type to be addressed safely.
Both of these modalities can be coupled with phenomenal topical products like hyaluronic acid serums, skin specific toners, trios of hydroxy acids and botanical foaming blends; these not only work as perfect gliding mediums, but pack a punch for outstanding skin results.
40s and Beyond
The 40s are when we start to see more significant changes in the turgor and firmness of the skin. There is a loss of volume and elasticity, in addition to more pronounced lines, wrinkles and visible discoloration and photodamage. Increasing cell turnover, boosting ATP (adenosine triphosphate) to support collagen and elastin, while providing deep hydration and correcting discoloration are all key areas to address. After 50, post-menopausal skin has declining levels of estrogen and increased levels of androgens, resulting in skin lacking of volume, being less elastic, more fragile and thinner. Dryness and sometimes sensitivity is another major concern.
Products like serums, masques and moisturizers that are packed with skin adapting botanicals, repairing peptides and lipid replenishing vitamins are key to introduce to your clients’ regimen at this time. Regular services that boost cellular ATP with true microcurrent is a phenomenal tool to have in your arsenal for 40, 50 and 60+ clients. Of course, some clients will be seeking out a dermatologist or medical practitioner at this time for more invasive and corrective wrinkle smoothing or volumizing injectables, peel or laser procedures. This should never overlook the weekly services and hands on touch that their skin professional can provide.
True microcurrent is the holy grail for treating multiple signs of aging skin. This safe, effective and non-invasive technology has truly revolutionized professional skin care and is the gold standard for industry pros and celebrity facialists. By mirroring the body’s own natural low level electrical current, microcurrent technology is able to dramatically tone the facial contour, leaving skin plump, hydrated and firm.
Be aware that when it comes to electrical current and the skin, the “more is better” paradigm is incorrect for microcurrent. The human body is an extremely subtle electrical system, and haphazardly delivering large charges of electricity to the skin surface may cause gross muscle contractions, temporarily resulting in a tightened appearance due to possible inflammation and shocking of motor nerves. However, this approach ultimately fatigues the musculature and can lead to increased muscle laxity and loss of skin tone in time, exactly the opposite of the intended result. Seek out true microcurrent technology that delivers proven and safe sophisticated sequencing patterns and frequencies to elicit precise results on the skin.
Adding To Your Arsenal
As professional skin therapists, we have a limitless choice of tools at our disposal. Experts predict that if technology is not part of your practice, that in five years you will have no practice! However, choose your suppliers wisely, do your research, ask about warranties and technology maintenance, education and customer support. An extra consideration here is your costs per service. Before you make a major investment, evaluate the suitability for your clientele and price point in your area. Above all, no matter what age, we need to encourage our clients (and ourselves, for that matter) to invest in themselves, and this includes buying and doing things that make them happy.
As Vice President of Business Development at Bio-Therapeutic, Annet King is responsible for strategic global brand development and expansion, calling upon her vast knowledge to refine and redefine the company's internal, client-based, and institutional educational systems. King was raised and educated in the United Kingdom and is CIDESCO, ITEC, and CIBTAC-certified, placing her in the uppermost echelon of world-class skincare professionals. Prior to joining Bio-Therapeutic, Annet spent a combined 21 years in respective roles at Dermalogica and Elemis.
