Inclusive skin care and beauty is a super hot topic right now. Brands that prioritize inclusivity, social justice and accessibility are gaining popularity among diverse consumers of all ages. These brands recognize that inclusivity involves both responsibility and commitment, and they aim to integrate diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) into their core values. They also strive to avoid harming the people and communities they serve by incorporating these values into their product formulation and marketing efforts.
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Inclusive skin care and beauty is a super hot topic right now. Brands that prioritize inclusivity, social justice and accessibility are gaining popularity among diverse consumers of all ages. These brands recognize that inclusivity involves both responsibility and commitment, and they aim to integrate diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) into their core values. They also strive to avoid harming the people and communities they serve by incorporating these values into their product formulation and marketing efforts.
While carrying a few inclusive product lines is a start, it can’t just be about getting people from underrepresented or underserved communities to buy what you’re selling. This is called “extraction marketing” and can actually do more harm than good to those communities.
To be truly inclusive when it comes to beauty and skin care, you need to understand:
- What inclusive beauty/skin care means
- The differences of skin depending on ethnicity or race and how this affects skin care choices
- How to be inclusive in the products you use in services and carry in your retail
Addressing the Beauty Standard
Inclusive skin care and beauty is about accepting and embracing people from all backgrounds, abilities and appearances, while making both accessible to all people regardless of their race, skin tone, gender, sexual identity, body size, religion, age or ability.
Throughout history, the beauty industry and its standards have been controlled by a very limited and exclusive group of individuals, resulting in a narrow visual representation of beauty. “Ideal beauty,” according to the media and the beauty industry has historically been white women who appear thin, clear-skinned and feminine. Until very recently, the beauty industry has been largely dominated by the ideal of light skin, little-to-no body fat and flawless, glowing skin. There has been a very clear message to women everywhere that this is what beauty is, and is what women should be striving for. This is a huge issue because most women don’t look like this.
This unrealistic set of standards and ideals has caused real harm from mental health issues to disordered eating. These beauty standards can be highly alienating for women who do not conform to the prescribed narrative, and they can seriously impede female empowerment and self-esteem in general.
Inclusive beauty and skin care first considers the specific needs of the underrepresented people they are serving in formulations and testing, and then visually represents those people (and the diversity among them) in their marketing and advertising. Inclusive and accessible beauty representation creates new standards and ideals that reminds all people (regardless of gender and identity) that they are perfectly beautiful just as they are. Inclusive skin care aims to enhance and care for one’s inherent beauty by helping the body do what it’s supposed to do. And yes, that is different depending on skin color.
Related: The Importance of Retailing Inclusive Sun Care
The Differences in Skin
Until recently, it has been very confusing for people with melanated skin to choose what products will work best for them. Most testing of beauty and skin care products has been done on white skin because the formulations were geared towards that skin complexion in the first place. Black and brown-skinned people have largely been ignored in both formulations and marketing, resulting in people of color (POC) feeling unsure about how to effectively take care of their melanated skin concerns.
Recent clinical research has shown that there are differences in skin depending on race and ethnicity. These studies have shown that skin composition is fundamentally identical regardless of racial background, but there are actually differences in the size, shape and interrelationship of different parts of the skin, especially in the epidermis. This has practical implications on skin care needs dependent on race.1 This is evident in the varying rates at which certain skin conditions and diseases are reported between different racial skin types.2 But, POC have found it more convenient to prioritize catering to their skin type, rather than their racial identity.
Addressing Skin Physiology
Academic research by the American Journal Of Clinical Dermatology found that there are distinct physiological differences in the skin due to the concentration of melanin present, and the needs of skin do change depending on how much melanin one has.3 Essentially, the darker the skin, the more you need to moisturize and the less you need to exfoliate.
The main consensus in academic research is that transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is higher in Black skin compared to white skin.4 TEWL occurs when moisture escapes from the skin and evaporates. This can lead to dry, dull, irritated and unhealthy skin, as moisture plays a key role in the skin’s vital restoration and rejuvenation processes, including natural exfoliation. So the higher the amount of melanin, the more important it is to moisturize–even when skin is prone to being oily.
When it comes to exfoliation, (a.k.a desquamation) a clinical study found that Black skin has a significantly higher spontaneous exfoliation rate. This is believed to be the reason for the common dry skin and xerosis (abnormally dry skin) conditions seen clinically in Black skin.5 More research still needs to be done here, but since Black skin tends to be dry and spontaneously exfoliates more, dark skinned people need to focus on ample hydration and moisturization, and a slower roll on exfoliation.
Sebum & Oil in Melanated Skin
For people with dark skin, it can feel counter intuitive to moisturize more because melanated skin tends to secrete more sebum and can be more oily than white skin.6 Clinical research shows that Black skin creates more sebaceous lipids (fatty oils), and that it’s also prone to higher water loss. So the higher level of oil on the skin is actually there to help protect and hydrate the skin. Stripping the skin’s oil is not helpful for melanated skin types. Adding oil to oily skin can sometimes be really beneficial to help balance the skin. Stripping oil makes the skin produce more oil, especially because the skin was naturally producing oil for protective hydration purposes.7
Wound Healing in Dark Skin
Black skin has larger mast cell granules than white skin. Mast cell granules are responsible for aiding the skin’s immune response.8 Mast cells play key roles during different stages of the skin wound healing process, and larger mast cells are key contributors to keloid hypertrophic scars, which are far more common for those with dark or Black skin.9
Ensuring that the ingredients in products support healthy wound healing is important, as the skin encounters damage all the time, and dark skin is more prone to scarring. To prevent long-term damage, scars or hypertrophic scars, make sure the skin care products you carry protect and repair from daily skin damage. Many vibrant superfoods and antioxidants support the skin’s natural healing ability, help to brighten the complexion and balance skin tone.
SPF For POC
In the May issue of Skin Inc., I wrote at length about sunscreen for people with dark skin. There are two main issues regarding sunscreen for POC: one is white cast and the second is finding one that also helps with their specific skin care needs. For many women of color, if sunscreen leaves a ghostly pallor, they just won’t wear it. POC have to look high and low to find a sunscreen that doesn’t leave a white cast and also addresses their skin care needs.
Protecting skin from the sun is important for everyone, but it’s also important for those with melanated skin to prevent hyperpigmentation. While melanin does actually protect the skin somewhat from ultraviolet radiation (equivalent to SPF 4), it’s not enough to prevent hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, fine lines, poor skin texture and cancer. Black and Asian skin are prone to sun damage in the form of hyperpigmentation, and this can be prevented with adequate sunscreen and antioxidants.10
Inclusive Product Offerings
It is not easy for POC to find the right skin care, and when they do find something that seems to check all the boxes, it takes a lot of patience and testing to see if it will actually work for them. Help your dark-skinned clientele by carrying products that you know are inclusive. Generally, that means buying products that are made by and for people of color.
You can also tell how inclusive a brand is by their marketing and advertising.
Ask yourself:
- What do the models look like?
- Are their models diverse?
- Are their brand ambassadors diverse?
- Does the brand have a commitment to diversity
and inclusion?
These are the things that people of color consider when choosing products, so choose your product lineups carefully and considerately.
A lifelong spa-goer and wellness product devotee, Irene Macabante uses her 25+ years of branding and marketing experience to create memorable spa experiences. As founder and CEO of The Citrine Consulting Collective (citrinecc.com), she ensures that its mission and vision are carried out with integrity, efficiency and transparency.
