Though they may seem like another innovation of modern skin care, chemical peels have a long and storied history, with the practice of using an abrasive agent on the skin for cosmetic purposes dating back to ancient times. Though the agents and methods used have evolved with technology and research, the overall goal of peels has remained the same: glowing and rejuvenated skin.
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Though they may seem like another innovation of modern skin care, chemical peels have a long and storied history, with the practice of using an abrasive agent on the skin for cosmetic purposes dating back to ancient times. Though the agents and methods used have evolved with technology and research, the overall goal of peels has remained the same: glowing and rejuvenated skin.
Peels are still a popular and beneficial choice for clients seeking to slough away dead skin, reduce the appearance of acne scars or discoloration, or even turn back the clock a bit. The best skin peels can knock years off of a person’s appearance, by diminishing fine lines and creating a softer, more supple look. Most estheticians are results-orientated, which makes peels a fantastic addition to their offerings because peels deliver maximum results.
The Skinny on Peels
Cosmetic or chemical peels are used to remove the top layers of the skin. Though this may sound scary, peels are a controlled “injury” to the skin, performed by a professional, that promotes the body’s natural inclination to heal, producing a softer, smoother appearance to the skin. By removing this top layer, any rough texture or discoloration is also removed.
There are a variety of peel types, and skin shedding may be significant or minor, depending on the type of peel chosen. Some estheticians may choose to follow the peel with an exfoliation treatment to help the process along, but most modern skin peels are sufficient with the chemical process only.
Today’s estheticians offer a variety of peels to suit most skin types, including chemical, acid and enzyme. Each type offers different levels of strength, skin penetration and end results. Once clients get past their initial wariness about the concepts of “acid” or “skin peeling,” they are typically thrilled with the results and the relatively low price point compared to other cosmetic procedures.
The several types of chemical peels offered have their own benefits. Keeping this in mind, estheticians should take the time to delve into what their clients are looking for in terms of their skin to choose the right type of peel.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are mild organic acids that often come from fruit, sugar, or milk. These types of peels slough off dead skin and are perfect for clients who wish to improve their overall skin tone and reduce the appearance of fine lines, acne scars, or dark spots.
The most common AHAs are glycolic, lactic, tartaric, and malic acids. In addition, there are many hybrid AHAs that have emerged in the marketplace, which are sometimes called a “lunchtime” peel because they cause the least irritation and require the least amount of downtime for one’s client.
Beta Hydroxy Acid
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) peels address the same issues as AHAs (dark spots, fine lines and dead skin) but penetrate more deeply than the “lunchtime” peels. The salicylic acid used is found in wintergreen leaves and birch bark, and has been used for decades to treat conditions, such as acne, warts, and psoriasis.
The BHA peels are considered anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial, and work well for sensitive or acne-prone skin. However, because this peel has properties similar to aspirin, it should not be used with clients who may have an aspirin allergy.
Related: Anti-aging, Pigmentation and Acne: The Depths of Chemical Peels
Jessner’s Peels
Jessner’s peels are stronger yet and work well for clients with oily, acne-prone skin and fine lines. The Jessner’s peel is still considered a “light peel,” unless multiple applications are used at once, and often combines salicylic acid, resorcinol, and lactic acid in an ethanol solution. What sets Jessner’s apart from other peels is the longer peel period — 6 to 10 days — and its effectiveness on clients with melasma or skin hyperpigmentation.
Trichloroacetic Acid
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels are for when a client wants something deeper than the typical peels, and is so strong that it must be done under a physician’s supervision (unless it contains less than 10% TCA). This peel works by coagulating skin protein to treat skin imperfections, discoloration, fine lines, and wrinkles. Estheticians must proceed with caution with this peel, however, as it can cause pigmentation issues in clients with darker skin tones.
The Process and Payoff
Introducing your clients to chemical peels can be a challenge if they are new to professional skincare, or even if the word “chemical” puts them off. The trained and service-orientated esthetician can explain the different peels, the process, and the benefits to the client and calm their fears. Skincare professionals can start by explaining that chemical peels have ancient roots and have helped people get the skin they’ve always dreamed of for centuries.
Before a chemical peel procedure, estheticians should ensure that the client is healthy enough for the procedure, and that they understand any and all risks, along with the benefits. A discussion about expectations is also imperative.
Clients should be able to talk about their motivation behind wanting a peel, and what they expect to see when they look in the mirror once the healing period has passed. Much of what comes across as disappointment in clients, no matter what the service, is often born from miscommunicated expectations. Estheticians should show their clients before and after pictures from other peels they have performed, and be very clear about what they can expect from a peel — and what can’t.
Discussing pre-and-post procedure care is also an absolute must. Using a retinoid cream for a few weeks before the treatment can help prepare the skin for the healing process. Additionally, avoiding sun exposure before and after the treatment can help the client avoid a painful burn or unintended skin peeling. Clients should also know that some peels require sedation, so they may need to prepare for a ride home in advance, as well as for someone to look after them immediately following the procedure.
Popular Peeling
Chemical peels remain a popular option in skincare, with recent statistics showing the market at $689.3 million in 2021, a number that only stands to grow as more professionals begin to offer a variety of chemical peel options to their clients. Superficial peels and AHAs remain the most popular options since they are a gentler option and require less healing time. They are a great entry-level consideration for clients who may have never had a peel before, but are willing to give it a try.
Besides the obvious aesthetic benefits of today’s peel options, chemical peels have additional bonus benefits. Peels can make your everyday skincare more effective, allowing it to penetrate deeper and stimulate the production of collagen.
In addition, chemical peels are far more affordable than modern laser treatments, which saw a surge in popularity in the early 2000s, but are seeing that popularity wane due to high cost. Peels can also help with under-eye circles and lead to clearer skin long-term.
Happy Peeling
The wonder of the chemical peel has stood the test of time. Even with tech advancements in laser resurfacing or surgical procedures, chemical peels will always have their place in professional skin care. With the wide range of options available for most skin types, their significant benefits, and their affordability, peels are an item any esthetician should have on their list of services.
Paul Charette is the creative mastermind behind Charette Cosmetics. A medical aesthetician and cosmetic practitioner, Paul’s extensive aesthetic education, unparalleled techniques, and attention to detail are evident in every aspect of Charette Cosmetics. A skin rejuvenation expert dedicated to finding the most advanced and effective skincare products and protocols, Paul is passionate about helping his clients achieve their goals so they feel confident and beautiful in their skin.
