Our society has always valued physical beauty. Though the perception of beauty varies across cultures, the regard we have for facial symmetry is universal. People tend to associate other positive attributes such as happiness and success with one’s level of attractiveness and facial symmetry.
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Our society has always valued physical beauty. Though the perception of beauty varies across cultures, the regard we have for facial symmetry is universal. People tend to associate other positive attributes such as happiness and success with one’s level of attractiveness and facial symmetry.
When we date or choose a mate, physical attractiveness is generally the first thing both men and women are drawn to, whether they are aware of it or not. Body type preferences change depending on the era and geographical location; however, having a luscious head of hair, long eyelashes or a healthy symmetrical brow always presents an image of wellbeing and fertility. This esteem we hold for the beauty aesthetic explains why the beauty industry is up from $483 billion in 2020 to 511 billion in 2021,1 despite the COVID restrictions that were in place at that time.
Brows In Focus
In 2013, the Harley Street Clinic claimed that women spent 17 minutes applying makeup on the eye area before a night out.2 The estimates vary, however, most women agree that the eye area, including the brows, takes the most amount of time to perfect. For instance, many studies today indicate that the average woman spends about an hour a day applying her makeup, and much longer if she is going out on the town. Again, much of that time is spent perfecting eyeliner and brows—working with pencils, powders and pomades.
The strong social significance of the eyebrows has been documented time and time again, prompting women to devote a significant amount of time and money chasing perfection. Even if the perfect brow is achieved, it must be maintained and withstand harsh elements such as humidity and high temperatures. Also, any stressful activity or simply wearing glasses can undo the hard work that was created just a few hours earlier.
Brow lamination is an option, but it has an average price of about $82 every four to six weeks. Much like lash extensions, if not properly cared for, repeated brow lamination could potentially lead to dryness and damage. This current generation can spend up to three hours perfecting a new makeup look, and the brows must be cut to perfection. NHCS research shows that 80.79 million women in the U.S. used eyebrow pencils in 2020, and 52.07 million did not.3 This would indicate that most women in this country need to sketch in their sparse brows. It seems that it would be advantageous for anyone to save at least 100 hours of their time and hard-earned dollars each year by not having to measure, sketch and set their sparse brows.
Microblading is the fastest growing new treatment in non-invasive aesthetics, with revenue increasing approximately 40% from year to year.4 So much evidence supports the desire consumers have for the procedure and its rapid growth potential. Microblading is only in the early bloom of its growth cycle. The sustainability of the product (brows) is about 20 times longer than that of lash extensions, whose profitability is still going strong! Microblading, though sustainable for a couple of years or more, also offers the peace of mind that it is not permanent like a tattoo. Some of the trepidation of buyer’s remorse is alleviated by that comforting thought.
A Social Influence
So, why are these statistics important? Not only do these stats support the rapid growth of microblading, but consumer focused search engines have turned us all into influencers in less than two swift decades.
We may not be welcoming anyone to our channel or spend our day gathering content to keep our millions of followers following; however, gone are the days of asking colleagues, friends or mentors for information.
Our smart phones allow us to look up anything, anytime of the day or night, look at a menu, pick a movie or create a look. The options are limitless. The information collected helps to shape our culture (i.e., social trends) and beauty trends all over the world. Each of our opinions matter and consumers are now focusing their online shopping on the proven quality of consumer reviews. So essentially we are still consulting a friend, just on a national or global level, and these are friends we probably will never meet in person. That’s why the studies that utilize our online habits also help to build the trends that consumers create. As a result of technology and social media, public opinion has become the most influential marketing dynamic in the world today.
This social media driven technology boom and our current cultural obsession with the perfection of online influencers perpetuates the aesthetic dissatisfaction of today’s youth. This has elevated cosmetic procedures to a new plateau, driving forward the purchase of new home use technological beauty devices. As a result, online shopping with the purpose of DIYing these technologies with little to no education is quickly becoming the norm. There has been a major increase in self-taught, self-proclaimed permanent makeup artists who feel they are just a few short online videos away from financial success. This presents liability, health and safety issues for everyone concerned. Microblading is no exception, especially since the materials are simple, relatively inexpensive and readily available. Any pioneer spirited DIY beauty enthusiast with a bit of artistic flair is likely to consider the undertaking. Also, a lack of proper client education is often problematic. If you scout private makeup groups on social media, you cannot help but notice how many complaints are rooted in undesirable expectations and improper after-care on the part of the client. So, keep reading to find out what you need to know.
Quality Education Importance
An experienced licensed beauty professional who is quick to add new technologies and skill sets to their service menu is likely to have already experienced the vast range in the quality of education. When paying up to 5,000 dollars for a one to to two week course, due diligence should be given to researching instructors. Often, the novice microblade artist will bargain hunt their education. The recent uptick in shortcut online permanent makeup classes presents the concern that not enough time is devoted to health and safety precautions.
Artists need education awareness of all possible risks and various safety aspects that may occur. Client safety precautions cannot be minimized. It takes time and practice to become a master, and patterns and depth of stroke is important. However, understanding the risks and how to take proper universal precautions needs to come first. With so many people looking to master the craft, as well as clients looking to have the service performed, a conversation about contraindications is vital!
Client Safety Precautions
Permanent tattoos deposit the pigment into the dermis through capillary activity, where macrophages (immune cells) heal the microscopic punctures. The dermis recognizes the ink as an antigen (foreign invader). Once the ink is trapped in the dermal matrix, it is permanent. It is possible for someone with an autoimmune disorder to continue to fight the antigen (ink) with inflammation and long-term side effects.
Microblading ink is deposited just above the dermis in the basal layer. The pigment is eventually broken down as it migrates up to the stratum corneum and eventually fades. Age, skin health and skin treatment are longevity variables. Since the pigment is not deposited in the dermis, there should be less of an autoimmune response from the body. This does not mean that a severe allergic reaction or immune response won’t occur, even if the preferred vegan or plant-based inks are used.
Anyone choosing inks for the first time should do thorough research on the safety and efficacy of the product. The reddish color in some inks should be of particular concern. Many red inks utilize cinnabar, a potentially toxic red mineral comprised of mercury (II) sulfide, while others may contain heavy metals such as cadmium or iron oxide and have been known to contribute to allergic reactions, dermatitis, eczema and scarring. Other pigments may also include lead, beryllium, chromium, cobalt, arsenic and nickel. A 2007 lawsuit brought by the American Environmental Safety Institute (AESI), enacted two of the leading tattoo ink manufacturers to place warning labels on their packaging.5 Unfortunately, with so many partially self-taught DIYers, these products are not always thoroughly investigated by new artists. Always research ingredients and whenever possible, purchase your ink in the U.S. or you can never be sure exactly what is in it.
Contraindications to Microblading
Contraindications that should require a doctor’s approval are, but not limited to some of the following.
Keloidal/hypertrophic scarring. If the practitioner presses too hard, a scar begins to develop from the pressure of the blade or needle in the deeper layers of the skin. If the damage is too great, it cannot heal itself. Therefore, the body begins repairing and replacing the damaged tissue with collagen. This collagen makes the tattooed skin look swollen and bumpy, and could cause a color change as well. The microbladed pigment that reaches the dermis will also likely have a grey, blurred effect.
Skin conditions/procedures. Skin conditions such as psoriasis, rosacea and eczema are contraindicated. You should also avoid microblading those with excoriation (scratching and picking disorders). Also, the client should not have botulinum toxin injections 30 days before and after being microbladed. Microblading on aged skin can also be contraindicated.
Health concerns. HIV, autoimmune disorders, pregnancy, diabetes, epilepsy, specific allergies, phobia-related disorders, bleeding disorders and use of blood thinners and aspirin (willow bark) can all be contraindicated. You should also wait for an oncologist’s approval before chemotherapy due to possible neutropenia (low white blood cell count).
Supplements. Be aware of additional herbs used supplementally in higher doses such as: garlic, omega 3, ginger, vitamin E, ginkgo biloba, wintergreen, turmeric, cayenne pepper, grape seed extract, dong quai (female ginseng), feverfew, bromelain, wintergreen and coumarin, which is sourced from angelica root, arnica flower, anise, cinnamon, chamomile, fenugreek, licorice root, red clover, and parsley and others. Some of these herbs taken as nutritional supplements can have potent anticoagulant capabilities that may affect results.
Recommended Continuing Education
Understanding the importance of education is all well and good, but understanding the importance of ongoing education is even better. Education doesn’t need to be taken all at once; however, ongoing education is always a must. Education can be relatively expensive, but a rapid recovery of the initial investment is likely. Provided here is a list of ongoing education recommended for microblading artists.
Blood borne pathogens. Many states require renewing blood borne pathogens certification every year.
Color theory. Many people have limited knowledge of color theory, and a thorough understanding of the concept is needed.
Camouflage. Neutralizing unwanted pigment with complimentary colors is a necessary skill to learn.
Anatomy of the face. Asymmetrical frontalis dominance is a problem that will arise. The artist needs a thorough knowledge of anatomy to trouble shoot and have a conversation about possible solutions. Injectables may relax the muscle or the client may need necessary minor restructuring compensations to the brow shape to achieve balance. If those options are not acceptable, discuss accepting that asymmetry may exist with expression. Some clients cannot be pleased or may be difficult to work with, and in those cases, you are better off tactfully telling them why microblading is not a good option for them.
Powder or ombre brow. These may be with a machine or manual. This technique is better for oily and mature skin and imparts a softer look for those who have some existing brow hair. The application starts softer graduating to a darker tail.
Combination brow.These types of classes combine the strokes of microblading and shading of powder brows.
Business. Missions and goals will change and evolve over time. Strategy is an important key to success. Business classes can help take you to the next level from a side business or small business to a thriving business. After enough time is spent on honing skills and necessary training, think business.
Challenging Clients
You cannot please all people all the time.Have you heard this phrase? It has been coined for a reason. If you have done your due diligence, most clients will be happy most of the time. However, a small percentage of people cannot be pleased. These people are of particular interest to microblade artists, as undesirable results are not accepted like those of a makeup application that can be easily wiped away in the moment.
There is much strong emotion involved with eyebrow shape and the semi-permanence of the procedure. With the development of new technologies comes new considerations. It would be helpful for microblade artists to also have a thick skin, and some analytical insight into human nature. When your entire clientele desires semi-permanent statement brows, a technician is more apt to encounter some stronger personalities and opinions.
To understand the challenging client, some understanding into human nature would be helpful. The challenging client may possess control issues, and it is difficult for them to place faith in a technician to control something so prominent on their faces. They also may have unrealistic expectations. It is important not to take a difficult client personally and work patiently towards a resolution. Do not tell them their thoughts and feelings are invalid. Be kind and patient.
Bringing in a credible third party such as a coworker or mentor will help to confirm the initial assessment and support the technician’s credibility. People tend to bully less when they are outnumbered by more than one qualified professional. If they are truly unreasonable and attack on social media, always answer respectfully and state what the problem was and what steps were taken to try and make the client happy. If problems persist, a qualified reputation management company may be needed. To help minimize these inflammatory occurrences, every microblade artist should be well versed in color theory and educate themselves in neutralizing unwanted pigment with the use of complimentary color. Color correction for permanent and semi-permanent makeup, pigment removal and pigment lightening classes are available and cost around $1,800. These classes are also valuable for removal of old, unwanted permanent makeup. The price is justifiable in that if you are in business long enough, you are likely to encounter some hard-to-please clients. You will also encounter clients that have fallen victim to unskilled artists, which will prohibit their desired result unless the old pigment is neutralized or removed.
Go Boldly
Healthy, bold, well-sculpted brows are a global trend that has been growing exponentially for years now. Anyone with an eye on fashion and beauty trends is sure to notice an increase in the attractiveness equation when a lush well-defined brow is added.
Whether you are an esthetician that wishes to add this lucrative service to your skill set, or merely a perspective client, hopefully this information will offer a well-rounded perspective, and help you boldly go where your brows or business have never been before!
Lisa Shor is a makeup artist and an esthetics educator at Tricoci University of Beauty Culture. Prior to her current role, she served as director of makeup education for The Art Institute of Makeup, a division of the New Age Spa Institute.
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