How to Choose the Best Ingredients to Treat Pigmentation

Like many functions within the skin, the process of creating pigment is extremely complex. Melanin protects our skin, and it is responsible for determining the color, which is created by the skin’s melanocyte cells through a process called melanogenesis. We have approximately 2,000 melanocytes per millimeter of skin. Naturally, the sheer number of these cells and the complexity of the process also means there is great susceptibility for issues to occur.

An important thing to keep in mind, however, when thinking about pigmentation is how our melanocytes are there for protection of the cell initially. We need this process to happen in order to help fight against the impact of UV rays. Our melanocytes cell, when it comes to protection, is considered our second line of defense—antioxidants being the first. It is important to understand the pathways of pigmentation when dealing with damage or wanting to prevent damage.

Knowing the pathways to pigmentation can make all the difference in figuring out the best ingredients to use for optimal results and brighter skin.

Tyrosinase Enzyme

The frequency of melanin production, pigment that is synthesized by melanocyte cells deep in the dermis layer, is determined by the enzyme tyrosinase. This copper-containing enzyme controls the production of melanin. The pathway to melanin production is impacted by every pigmentation concern and becomes key when reducing or balancing pigment.

Melansome Transfer

Melanosomes, organelles inside the melanocyte cell, essentially store and transport melanin pigment to the epidermis (the top layer of skin). Once these organelles reach the top, they transfer or dump pigment into the skin.

Related: Alternative Perspectives in Hyperpigmentation

Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone

Melanoctye-stimulating hormones (MSH) are a part of melanogenesis and the entire creation of melanin. MSH are a group of peptide hormones found by the base of the skull or brain area. When MSH is initiated, it begins to circulate in the blood and then binds to the melanocyte cell, causing melanogenesis to begin.

Each of these pathways are important in healthy melanin synthesis and protect our body and skin from UV Rays and certain hormonal imbalances. Melanocyte responsibilities fall as a second line of defense, but this can break down with over exposure of UV rays, stress, age and diet. When this damage occurs, our cells often over produce melanin creating darker pigment on the skin, or they can lose the ability to create pigment leading to lighter skin.

Pigmentation Types and Causes

We primarily have four types of pigment changes:

1. Hyperpigmentation (darkened pigment)
2. Hypopigmentation (a lack of melanin in the skin)
3. Demarcation (uneven pigment from procedures, picking or scratching)
4. Melasma (dense, larger patches)

But, what causes the damage in the first place? Unwanted pigmentation is the result of both internal and external causes. Excess exposure to the sun (UVA and UVB rays), hormonal fluctuations, inflammation, certain medications, scarring, and trauma to the skin can all cause cellular damage resulting in pigmentation issues.

UV exposure is the No. 1 cause of hyperpigmentation. When the skin is exposed to the sun, it increases tyrosinase activity and over works MSH. Repeated exposure leads to damage, as the melanocyte cell is over producing to protect the epidermis. Hormonal fluctuations also trigger the MSH, which then increases tyrosinase activity. This will often display as melasma and can be further stimulated by inflammation and UV exposure. Finally, inflammation can increase histamines, Langerhans cells and melanin production, which can lead to pigment being trapped in the papillary layer.

There are also a few key pathway inhibitors that can come into play with pigmentation.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Treating almost every form of hyperpigmentation, especially sun-induced pigmentation, tyrosinase inhibitors are chemicals that help prevent or slow down the production of melanin in the skin. When it comes to tyrosinase inhibitors, there are numerous botanical sources to look for that inhibit tyrosinase and reduce hyperpigmentation.

Daisy Flower Extract. This naturally-sourced ingredient is highly effective in clinical studies, demonstrating the same lightening properties as 2% hydroquinone, but it is gentle enough that it will not over dry the skin. This powerful flower extract influences different pathways associated with melanin formation, which also gives it an edge in lighteners available in cosmetic formulations seen today.

Alpha Arbutin (L). Extracted from bearberry leaves, this chirally-corrected, plant-based hydroquinone has potent tyrosinase inhibiting properties, but is more stable and creates less sensitivities in the skin. It is perfect when blended with other natural lighteners to deliver a brighter, more even complexion.

Kojic Acid. Derived from Japanese mushrooms or a by-product in the production of sake, this naturally-occurring ingredient is popular among those looking to brighten and lighten pigmented areas on the skin. This impressive tyrosinase inhibitor has been safely used for years on those struggling with uneven skin tone and “age” spots.

Azelaic Acid. A natural tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredient found in wheat and barley, azelaic acid does more than just leave skin with a lighter and brighter complexion. This ingredient also reduces inflammation in the skin; a must-have for those struggling with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). It is also ideal when used in conjunction with other tyrosinase inhibitors.

Melanosome Transfer Inhibitor

A melanosome inhibitor essentially blocks the melanin transfer and tyrosinase pathways, allowing for less pigment to come to the surface of the skin.

Niacinamide, also known as B3, is a potent vitamin that does many things for the skin, such as firming skin tone, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as lightening dull complexions. This powerful, natural ingredient reduces the amount of melanin transferred into skin cells, providing faster skin-brightening results, especially when combined with other tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients.

Related: Top Pigmentation Treatments

Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone Inhibitor

Pigmentation caused by MSH is becoming more common due to various methods of hormone therapy, birth control and other medications that may lead to hormonal fluctuations within the body. Melasma, also known as pregnancy mask, may be defined by areas of dense pigment. This is commonly seen above the lip, on the cheeks or on the forehead.

Melanin production may be increased due to these fluctuations in hormones, which in turn, triggers an increase in MSH. Another possible link are toxins in the liver from medications and other harmful agents. In either case, an increased exposure to UV rays will cause more pigment to surface. When dealing with melasma, it is important to discuss the internal changes and causes, as well as applying ingredients topically.

Resveratrol is a potent antioxidant from red wine. The ingredient inhibits the transfer of the MSH to combat free radicals and the breakdown of collagen and elastin, essentially brightening and lightening the skin. In recent studies, this ingredient has shown its ability to reduce the impacts of the melanocyte stimulating hormone on pigmentation, specifically those struggling with melasma and hormonal pigmentation.

Diet and Pigmentation

Another way to reduce unwanted pigmentation is through your diet. Incorporating a healthy number of antioxidants in your diet can help reduce inflammation and excessive melanin deposits. During inflammation flare-ups, your immune system is triggered, which send signals through your melanocyte pathways to make more melanin. Grapes, berries, citrus and super fruits like pomegranates, as well as vegetables like carrots, spinach, beetroot and broccoli can all reduce inflammation and lessen unwanted pigment.

Proceed with Caution

Inhibiting melanin synthesis can backfire, as this is an important process for healthy skin and a healthy body. Our skin is intelligent, and cells will find alternative paths if they are experiencing too much blocking. This can happen overtime and primarily with ingredients that have the ability to shut down production. An example of this would be high doses of hydroquinone. Recommending spot treatments and understanding if the ingredient is slowing down or shutting down the production is critical. A good rule of thumb is to rotate out every three to four months, giving the skin a break and using spot treatment versus full skin or body treatments.

Shannon Esau the CEO and national educator at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals. She brings more than 20 years experience in the esthetic industry. Esau owned skin care salons in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, has studied chemistry in skin care formulations and has been mentored by Rhonda Allison for decades. www.RhondaAllison.com and www.REDmethod.com. For more information about Pigmentation Solutions, go to rapigmentationsolutions.com.