Following a previous collaboration, French companies Gattefossé and Ambiotis joined forces again and uncovered a new target and perspective on anti-aging skin care – alterations in the pro-resolving lipids of aged skin. Their work reframes aging as a biological imbalance rather than a mere cosmetic concern.
Communication Breakdown Activates Pro-inflammatory Response
More specifically, Gattefossé and Ambiotis studied the pro-resolving lipids found in the secretome of aged skin. These lipids are critical to resolving inflammation.
The companies identified changes that disrupt interactions between macrophages – the sentinels of the immune system, and dermal fibroblasts – key architectural cells in the dermal extracellular matrix.
As the companies explained, these alterations cause dermal fibroblasts to become abnormally activated, adopting a pro-inflammatory and pro-degradative phenotype marked by an increase in the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases.
Integrative Approach to Restore Balance
These findings support a shift toward more integrative strategies in cosmetic science – approaches that aim to restore the skin's natural balance rather than focus on increasing collagen or elastin levels. The companies jointly aim to design and develop such solutions to address skin aging.
"Maintaining homeostasis is a fundamental element of human physiology," said Marc Dubourdeau, CEO of Ambiotis. "Fortunately, our bodies, tissues and skin are well-equipped to do it, thanks in particular to the so-called specialized pro-resolving mediators.
"... Encouraging the increased synthesis of these lipids is tantamount to reinforcing the skin's own beneficial mechanisms, helping to prevent aging and preserve the skin's vitality," Dubourdeau added.
“It is becoming essential to rethink cosmetic intervention through the lens of more integrative anti-aging approach," noted Nicolas Bechetoille, head of skin biology research at Gattefossé.
"The tissue integrity of the skin can no longer be viewed solely in terms of the balance between synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix components," Bechetoille continued. "Targeting pro-resolving bioactive lipids is now a key strategy to preserve skin health and effectively combat aging within a holistic healthy aging framework.”
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