As weeks fly by and seasons change, the skin experiences changes too, and these changes are not always for the better. Seasonal transitions bring flakes, roughness and dull skin, all signs of an imbalance between the dermis and epidermis. To treat symptoms, professional estheticians must consider many factors when analyzing a client’s skin, selecting a facial treatment and finally, recommending home care.
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As weeks fly by and seasons change, the skin experiences changes too, and these changes are not always for the better. Seasonal transitions bring flakes, roughness and dull skin, all signs of an imbalance between the dermis and epidermis. To treat symptoms, professional estheticians must consider many factors when analyzing a client’s skin, selecting a facial treatment and finally, recommending home care.
Starting at Ground Zero
First, it is important to understand what happens not only on the surface of dry or dehydrated skin, but what lies underneath. The outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, is often envisioned as a “brick-and-mortar wall” that shields and protects against environmental damage. The “wall” is a hydrolipid film made up of proteins, moisture factors, and natural lipids essential for keeping the stratum corneum hydrated, bouncy and protected from the environment.
The “bricks” are corneocytes, which are skin cells that contain proteins and Natural Moisture Factor (NMF). The skin’s NMF pulls in moisture, as it is made up of humectant and moisturizing ingredients, including approximately: 40% amino acids, 8.5% sugars and peptides, 5% sodium, 4% potassium, 1.5% calcium, 1.5% magnesium and a variable percentage of hyaluronic acid.1
The “mortar” is a mix of lipids composed of fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol. These lipids surround corneocytes (“bricks”) and help lock in moisture and regulate skin permeability.
Dry skin happens when components of this “brick-and-mortar wall” are missing, as with aging skin when the body’s natural production of lipids slows down. In fact, aging, genetics, over-peeling, chronic use of retinoids or strong acids and external stressors can disrupt NMF and lipid levels, resulting in a damaged protective barrier.
Putting skin back in balance requires two steps.
- Hydrate the skin with moisture-boosting, water-binding molecules to balance the water content of skin cells.
- Seal in hydration with oils and occlusive ingredients that keep water inside and shield skin from the outside.
These two steps help maintain skin health and protect skin from wind, heat, cold and other stressors.
However, when skin’s outer layer of protection is left unrepaired, skin shows flaking, rough patches, redness, loss of elasticity and other signs of aging. Even worse, the development of healthy corneocytes is impacted, creating a vicious cycle of unbalanced, dry and irritated skin. So, what’s the best way to reestablish a moisture cushion?
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Prep is the First Step
Gentle exfoliation is an essential first step in a moisture-boosting treatment. Exfoliate for a clean slate! Layers of dead skin cells are constantly building up on the skin, and not all of them naturally flake off. What happens when those layers of dead skin cells are left on the face? Hydration, nutrients and anti-aging ingredients all won’t get in.
Think of it this way. Imagine a garden that needs fertilizer to add nourishment to the soil, but there are layers and layers of dead leaves blocking the way. It is difficult for nutrients to get down into the soil where they can do some good. Those layers of dead leaves must be swept away. Likewise, to get nourishment and moisture into the skin, dead skin cells must be exfoliated. There are a few different ways to exfoliate dead skin cells away.
Hydroxy acids. A moisture-boosting treatment can start with mild chemical exfoliants containing an alpha hydroxy acid or beta hydroxy acid to dissolve the bonds that make dead skin cells stick together. For dry, sensitive skin, mandelic acid is ideal due to its large molecular size, which minimizes the risk of skin irritation.
Enzymes. An alternative to hydroxy acids is enzyme exfoliation, which uses enzymes to “eat up” dead skin cells. Papain and bromelain are enzymes derived from papaya and from pineapple that are good for dry, sensitive skin.
Physical exfoliants. Microdermabrasion and physical exfoliants also slough off surface debris.
Devices. Tools provide another option to exfoliate dry, sensitive skin. For example, an ultrasonic beauty tool gently vibrates away dead skin cells and pore-clogging gunk.
What is the bottom line? Avoid over-exfoliating, which can trigger skin to over-compensate with excess oil production, disrupting the skin barrier even more. After gently exfoliating, it is essential to immediately add hydration, lock in moisture and encourage barrier repair. Handheld tools can be used to maximize moisture, such as tools for microneedling, micro-channeling or infusing.
Microneedling with Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is naturally created in the body, binding water, expanding it and plumping skin. What is the problem? As a person ages, levels of natural hyaluronic acid decrease. What is a possible solution? A microneedling tool partnered with hyaluronic acid fast-tracks hydration to the skin. Improving skin’s ability to absorb hydration helps volumize, plump and accelerate the natural repair process of the skin barrier.
Microneedling, or collagen induction therapy, delivers tiny needle pricks to stimulate skin’s natural healing process, which helps trigger the production of new collagen, enhances texture, improves firmness and reduces lines and wrinkles.
Microneedling can also be used to help deliver moisture into the skin. After cleansing, exfoliating and disinfecting the skin, a hyaluronic serum is applied to help the microneedling device roll or glide along the skin surface during the procedure. However, it is important to note that in California, estheticians may not legally perform microneedling, since it is seen as an invasive procedure.2 Always make sure you check what your legal scope of practice is in your state.
Channeling Moisture
On the other hand, clients themselves may use microneedling or micro-channel pen devices for home use. These handheld micro-channel tools often have crystalline silicon cartridges with points that do not penetrate skin as deeply as a microneedle roller would. The cartridge points are non-invasive and create microscopic channels in the outmost layer of the stratum corneum to boost the absorption of skin care ingredients, including hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
To microchannel moisture into the skin, after cleansing and exfoliating, a hyaluronic serum or water-based serum is applied. The pen is moved at a steady pace in a cross-hatched pattern over each section of a targeted area. These treatments are performed with no more than two passes per section of skin. Clients are recommended to avoid exfoliants and extended sun exposure for at least three days after the treatment.
Infusing Moisture
Another trending skin care tool is a handheld device that infuses ambient oxygen, along with micronized products into skin for immediate hydration, plumping and volume. The resulting immediate and long-lasting dewy radiance is often referred to as “glass” or “jello” skin (See Mini-Treatment for Mega-Moisture). Attached to the top of the infuser is a small cup that holds a mixture of hydrating toner and a few drops of water-based serum. The tool takes up ambient oxygen from the air as it micronizes the water-based liquid into an ultra-fine mist that is instantly absorbed, saturating skin with oxygenated moisture.
When used with moisture-boosting active ingredients such as multiple forms of hyaluronic acid, an infuser instantly hydrates, volumizes, fills in lines and creates a healthy, youthful-looking radiance.
From Dry to Dewy
Due to seasonal change, lifestyle stressors, age, genetics or medical conditions, everyone deals with dryness at some time. An imbalance in the water/lipid ratio of the stratum corneum leads to dry skin conditions, with symptoms that may be temporary or long-term.
For most clients, simple measures can be taken to treat and prevent dryness and dehydration. First, incorporate exfoliants into a regular skin care routine to sweep away surface debris and clarify pores. However, it is important to avoid excessive exfoliation that strips skin of essential lipids.
Choose the appropriate handheld tool to maximize moisture, which also helps maintain the water/lipid balance of the skin’s natural protective barrier. Take advantage of easy-to-use handheld tools for in-spa treatments, and let clients know how tools can help maximize moisture at home.
Whether clients use a handheld skin care tool or not, teach them how to modify their skin care routine, lifestyle choices, and everyday behaviors to prolong the effects of their facial treatment and keep their skin looking healthy, even during seasonal changes. Encourage consistent home care. As you treat, educate and encourage your clients. Your role as their skin care expert extends far beyond the walls of your treatment room. In fact, your expert advice is a tool your clients can use every day, too!
Microneedling can be used to deliver moisture to the skin.
Mini-Treatment for Mega Moisture
The following treatment for dry or dehydrated skin incorporates handheld tools to hydrate skin and seal in moisture.
- Apply a foam-based cleanser that contains peptides and moisturizing botanical extracts and oils. Use a handheld ultrasonic spatula in firm, gliding motions to remove cleanser and exfoliate skin.
- Use a handheld oxygen infuser to dispense a blend of mineral-rich hydrating toner and water-based serum into skin.
- Apply a moisturizing cream mask containing hyaluronic acid and omega-fatty-acid-rich botanical oils to face. After 15-20 minutes, massage product into skin and wipe off excess with a moist sponge or towel.
- Use the handheld oxygen infuser to again spray the micronized mist of toner and water-based serum onto skin.
- Finish with peptide-infused moisturizing cream or sunscreen.
Janel Luu has over 35 years of experience in the cosmetics industry as an international educator, researcher and formulator. Her extensive background in product development built a solid foundation for her skin care brands, including Le Mieux Cosmetics, Le Mieux Clinical, PurErb, NatraRx, Luminé Veil and MD-GEN.
