In modern days, the most commonly used exfoliation techniques are chemical (often referred to as “peel”) and mechanical (often referred to as “scrub”) exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants utilize acids or enzymes to break down protein, while mechanical exfoliants contain grainy scrubbing molecules to release the dead skin cells. But these two were not always the most dominant methods of smoothing the skin surface.
Log in to view the full article
In modern days, the most commonly used exfoliation techniques are chemical (often referred to as “peel”) and mechanical (often referred to as “scrub”) exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants utilize acids or enzymes to break down protein, while mechanical exfoliants contain grainy scrubbing molecules to release the dead skin cells. But these two were not always the most dominant methods of smoothing the skin surface.
In the 1700s, Marie Antoinette famously made face masks from eggs, milk powder, lemon juice and (of course) cognac to cleanse, purify and exfoliate her skin. After the effecting period, she removed the mask from her skin with the technique that now we call “gommage.” This exfoliation technique has been gaining increasing popularity in the U.S. during the past few decades, especially since plastic microbeads have been banned.
Gommage Basics
The word gommage comes from the French word “gomer” that translates to “erase.” It is a gentle method of removing the product along with dead skin cells with a back-and-forth type of movement of one or two fingers. Just like the satisfying way of using a pencil eraser on a piece of paper.
Gommage treatments can come in the form of paste, gel or creamy masks. Modern day gommage products are multitaskers by combining the chemical and the mechanical methods of exfoliation. The chemical actives break down the buildup of proteins that form dead cells on the surface. Then, the rubbing of the product off the skin results in removing these broken up cells to reveal a beautiful, newly refreshed and smooth complexion that is more able to absorb hydrating and nourishing ingredients, just like beauty magic.
Gommage exfoliators are particle-free, so they eliminate dry cells without scratching that causes micro-injuries, or irritating sensitive or already damaged skin. Since no harsh scrubbing particles are involved in this technique, it is beneficial for all skin types. It can even be used on sensitive skin, such as irritated, inflamed, acneic or compromised complexions.
The chemical actives are often gentle proteolytic enzymes, or sometimes unique ingredients such as sulfur or mineral clay with keratolytic effects that loosen and break down protein and prevent clogged pores. Honey or xanthan gum can add to the exfoliation effect by pulling off the loosened dead cells when the product is dried and being removed from the skin.
In today’s world, we’re all about instant gratification. The gommage method plays right into that thanks to the way we can literally see the product rolling, lifting and even sweeping lingering impurities and dry skin cells away.
Gommage Steps
There are three easy steps of gommage exfoliation.
Step 1. Apply the product in a medium thickness, then wait 5-10 minutes or until it dries to a somewhat sticky consistency. Air conditioning or heating may speed up the drying process. If the product gets completely dry, the skin gets pulled during the erasing process, which should be avoided. If over drying happens, the product can be rehydrated with a few drops of water to avoid over-pulling. During application, pay attention to have as even distribution of the exfoliant as possible. If the treatment is applied too thin at the edges, the erasing process is a bit more difficult to start.
Step 2. Once the surface is almost dry, but still has a little stickiness, start to rub one or two fingertips in a back-and-forth movement until little pills form and the product rolls off the skin taking along the dead cells.
Step 3. Rinse or wipe off any leftover residue. Use lukewarm water or towel.
Treatment Details
The gommage technique can be used both on the face and body, making it an ideal overall treatment for smooth and refreshed skin. It can be used as a targeted treatment, for example around lip lines, where harsher exfoliation methods may not be beneficial. Some gommage exfoliants are so gentle they can be used around the eyes or even on the eye lids.
The process is a little messy, so make sure to have an extra layer of towel under the client for easy cleanup. For home use, advise to do this over the sink or in the shower. Recommended home use is once or twice a week for best looking, healthy and more even skin.
Contraindications
Contraindications include allergy or sensitivity to ingredients, over exfoliated skin, the use of retinol, open wounds, acne, the presence of herpes or other infections, sunburn, radiation therapy or surgeries. Any type of exfoliation can further irritate these type of conditions, so it is advised to let them heal first.
Gommage Benefits
So, why should you add this old technique to your menu? Considering that this age-old French exfoliation technique combines the advantages of the modern day methods while maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, there is no doubt your business and your clients can benefit. Gommage provides the following benefits.
- It removes dead skin cells that cause dullness and wrinkle lines.
- It smooths the skin surface for an instantly soft, refreshed and radiant complexion
- It promotes new cell growth to strengthen the skin.
- It improves circulation for healthier skin and better nutrient absorption.
- It unclogs pores to reduce acne breakouts.
With so many benefits and the versatility for all skin types, it is no wonder that gommage exfoliation continues to be a tried and true treatment for smoothing and brightening the skin sans the redness.
So put down the sugar scrub and pick-up this proven and magnifique dual exfoliation method!
Szilvia Hickman is the founder and owner of Szép Élet, the exclusive North American distributor for ilike Organic Skin Care. Her interest in skin care began as a teenager, and she became an esthetician shortly thereafter. She founded Szép Élet in 2006 to bring Hungarian skin care to the United States.
