The New Eye Zone: Between Lashes and Brows

Even during the pandemic, eye lift surgery was number two in the top five surgical procedures, second to nose reshaping.¹ Research also found that home-isolation and social distancing during the COVID-19 pandemic caused an increased use of digital devices, posing a greater risk of developing digital eye strain-related symptoms.²

As more people wore masks, the eye area became even more in focus, increasing brow and lash enhancement, both at home and in the spa and salon. This trend is expected to increase, even as we (hopefully) take off our masks in the coming years. In fact, the false eyelashes market was valued at US $1,377.28 million in 2021 and is projected to reach US $2,046.61 million by 2028.³

There is a lot of attention on lash and brow enhancement, but it is the area between the lash and brow, the new eye zone, that should be getting renewed focus. Lash and brow enhancements are a big draw to the salon and spa, especially as clients remain masked in public. However, the perfection achieved with both these services will not be nearly as effective if the skin between the lashes and brows is wrinkled or darkened by fatigue or drooping. The latest bio-advanced ingredients and professional treatments can address these concerns on the lid and around the eye contour area to help restore the skin.

Here, we’ll review the unique histology of the skin in the eye area, as well as outline the most important ingredients and protocol for an eye mask that can be applied directly onto the eye lids for dramatic results. Clients will not believe their eyes!

Eye Histology

From a histological perspective, the skin around your eyes is thinner and more delicate than the skin on other parts of your body.⁴ The outer surface of the eyelid is covered by thin skin (epidermis) with eyelashes and sebaceous glands located at the end of the lid. The eyelid’s (also known as the palpebra) main function is to protect the eye from mechanical damage and to help adjust the amount of incoming light. In addition, blinking the eyelid helps spread a liquid film of tears over the cornea.

The two major components forming the core of the eyelid are the orbicularis oculi muscle and the tarsal plate. The orbicularis oculi muscle enables facial expression. The tarsal plate consists of dense fibroelastic tissue in which additional glands are found that add secretions to the tear film. There are about 20 or such glands in each of the upper and lower eyelids, and their sebaceous secretion (along with sebaceous glands associated with the eyelashes) contributes an important lipid component to the tear film that reduces surface tension and retards evaporation.⁵

As we know, the area around the eye has special significance in human social interaction, since humans focus on the eye when talking to one another. With this focused attention, any cosmetic problem is highlighted (see Cosmetic Problems of The Eye).

Increase in stress is well-documented at this time. According to one recent study, nearly seven in 10 employees indicated that the COVID-19 pandemic is the most stressful time of their entire professional career, resulting in marked increases in new prescriptions for antidepressant, anti-anxiety and anti-insomnia medications.⁶ Research⁷ has found that stress caused by sleep deprivation increases signs of aging, such as fine lines, reduced elasticity and uneven pigmentation. The loss of skin elasticity may also contribute to the formation of bags under your eyes.⁸

Ingredients For The Eye

For skin care, ingredients need to provide deep moisturization to help skin remain resilient, as well as contain antioxidants to help prevent signs of aging and stress.

Seaweed. Laminaria digitata is a source of many important nutrients, including 12 vitamins, 18 amino acids, 42 trace elements and minerals, and phlorotannins. It also contains polyunsaturated fatty acids, enzymes and bioactive peptides. Essential fatty acids help maintain the skin’s barrier, and polysaccharides such as alginic acid, help to lock moisture into the skin. Among marine resources, it is also one of the richest sources of phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides, fucosterol and fucoxanthins.⁹

Ulva Lactuca Extract. Also known as sea lettuce, this marine extract is high in vitamins and essential trace minerals that keep the skin looking healthy and soothed. Biopeptides of this seaweed are rich in proline, glycine and lysine, like elastin. Application of the products containing these marine biopeptides provide an immediately perceivable firming appearance.

Peptides. These are compounds of amino acids; the building blocks of proteins. Peptides are particularly good for the eye area, including dipeptide-2, a string of two amino acids that help to reduce the appearance of puffiness; and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and tetrapeptide-7, which deeply moisturize the skin, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Almond Protein Biopolymer. This advanced technology utilizes cross-linking, or biopolymerization of almond protein, to create a three-dimensional network and help create an immediate lifted effect.

Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid). This natural moisturizing polysaccharide prevalently found in the skin is known to hold a thousand times its weight in water.

Chrysin. Isolated from honeycomb, this natural compound helps reduce the appearance of dark circles.

Gotu Kola Extract. This extract is known to enhance skin quality and effectively provide moisture.

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract. Known to aid in circulation, this extract is used in skin care for its nourishing and rejuvenating properties.

Horse chestnut Seed Extract. Rich in vitamin K, horse chestnut is used to help reduce the appearance of puffiness.

Shea Butter. This nourishes skin with vitamins and high levels of fatty acids, helping to promote moisturized, even skin.

Squalane. Derived from plant sugar, squalane is known to be a very effective moisturizing agent, with its benefits extending to help the reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, improving the appearance of skin elasticity, and enhancing the appearance of skin barrier integrity.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder. This widely-used ingredient contains over 200 substances, including 20 minerals, 20 amino acids, 12 vitamins and active enzymes. It is used to soothe the skin and serve as an anti-inflammatory agent.

Licorice Root Extract. This ingredient is known for skin-brightening benefits and skin soothing attributes.

Tocopheryl acetate. A vitamin E derivative, this ingredient is considered a high-powered antioxidant, as well as a superlative skin soother.

Cucumber Extract. Cucumber is known to have soothing and skin tightening properties.

Chamomile Flower Extract. Used for its soothing effects, it has also shown to offer natural skin moisturizing benefits.

Willow Bark Extract. Extracted from the white willow tree (Salix Alba), this helps with mild exfoliation of skin to reveal a more youthful complexion while it provides skin conditioning benefits.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. A superior stable form of vitamin C, this ingredient is known to have potent antioxidant properties.

Grape Seed Oil. This fine textured, linoleic-rich oil has been shown to have strong antioxidant properties. Grapeseed oil is also one of several plant emollients that mimic the lipid content of the skin, preventing moisture loss and promoting skin’s soft, smooth, healthy appearance.

Retinyl palmitate. This ingredient is a combination of retinol and palmitic acid, a form of vitamin A. It is a potent antioxidant that also helps moisturize the skin.

Glucose. This simple sugar is known to have water binding properties for proper skin hydration.

These ingredients and protocols can help create a more perfected skin appearance on the eye lid area to use alone for an uplifting, anti-fatigue treatment or as an upgrade to popular lash and brow services. Consider implementing these as upgrades to lash and brow services and watch your business grow.

Lydia Sarfati is an international industry leader, with over 46 years of experience as a spa owner, consultant, and esthetician. She is the founder/CEO of Repêchage, the first company to bring seaweed-based skincare treatments to the U.S market and is the president of CIDESCO Section U.S.A.