In our exciting industry, constant innovation and development exist in every aspect of this ever-growing arena. Staying ahead of the curve is the priority for every manufacturer, in technology, ingredients, devices or treatments. In this article, we will bring at-home skin care devices into focus, and like a Monday morning quarterback, discuss technology features and benefits, and whether these devices should be in the hands of consumers or remain with professionally trained skin care providers.
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In our exciting industry, constant innovation and development exist in every aspect of this ever-growing arena. Staying ahead of the curve is the priority for every manufacturer, in technology, ingredients, devices or treatments. In this article, we will bring at-home skin care devices into focus, and like a Monday morning quarterback, discuss technology features and benefits, and whether these devices should be in the hands of consumers or remain with professionally trained skin care providers.
1. Ultrasonic Technology
Achieving increased efficacy when applying skin care products is often a challenge, and if using a therapeutic and proven skin care brand, making the skin healthier-looking will increase the skin’s function of being that healthier acting barrier.1 Science has shown that low-frequency ultrasound addresses this issue by creating cavitations,2 allowing for better product efficiency.3
How Low-Frequency Ultrasound Works: Unlike high-frequency ultrasound, low frequency (22 kHz) is superior at the job of product delivery.3 When combined with iontophoresis through a targeted probe, low-frequency sonophoresis (LFS) offers 40X better product efficacy4 vs. simple topical application of the product. When combined with targeted, proven, and therapeutic ingredients, increased beneficial outcomes can be enjoyed by an individual either at home or with a professional skin care provider.
2. Cosmetic Micro-Needling
Modern cosmetic micro-needling was pioneered by Dr. Des Fernandes, when he recognized that the use of therapeutic, scientifically proven ingredients helps make the benefits of the skin’s barrier function more efficacious. This poses a huge problem for skin care professionals to continue to make changes in the appearance of the skin when the skin is functioning optimally and impedes the delivery of ingredients, its top function.5 The state’s regulations determine if skin care providers can do cosmetic needling on clients. Check with the local cosmetology board to ensure you follow their specific rules.
How Cosmetic Microneedling Works: By using a roller with needles that protrude only 0.1 mm, we can make hundreds of pain-free microchannels that allow for up to 100X better efficacy of topically applied products*. After cleansing and toning, use gentle but firm pressure to roll the cosmetic device over the skin in various directions for 3-5 minutes. Follow with treatment serums and creams. Perform this only in the evening to avoid affecting SPF or makeup application.
3. Microcurrent Technology
One of the key concerns for many individuals is sagging or lack of firmness in the appearance of the skin. Unfortunately, as we age, muscles tend to lengthen, offering less support to facial skin to which they are directly attached.6 Another aspect of aging is bone density loss, which results in more skin than the bone structure can support.7 Microcurrent technology offers a revolutionary approach that mimics the body's natural electrical currents8 to stimulate facial muscles. This method is known for its ability to contour the look of the face, resulting in a lifted and tightened appearance.
The origins of microcurrent technology date back to the 1970s, with Thomas W. Wing being recognized as the father of modern microcurrent.9 Today, the fanfare of microcurrent use is more associated with beauty and skin care than its medical origins. Nevertheless, it shines as both an at-home and in-office treatment hero.
How Microcurrent Technology Works: Microcurrent technology delivers low-level electrical currents that mirror the body’s natural electrical currents. The current and wavelength are used to determine the outcome of the treatment. Shallower wavelengths target superficial tissues above the muscle. Science has shown this enhances the benefits of ATP (adenosine triphosphate) production which boosts collagen and elastin synthesis, increases intracellular hydration, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and improves the overall look of skin tone and radiance. Deeper wavelengths target the effects of deeper muscle tissues, lifting, toning, and tightening the appearance of the face.10 These wavelengths enhance overall radiance, like shallower wavelengths, but with an emphasis on the signs and look of muscle firming. The process is non-invasive and painless, making it a popular choice for anyone wanting an alternative to a more invasive procedure like a facelift.
4. Dermaplaning Devices
The industry has modernized the outlook on exfoliation, emphasizing nourishing the skin with vitamin A, rather than relying on harsh physical exfoliation. Dermaplaning, which involves gently scraping off the top layer of skin with a stainless-steel blade, has gained popularity for its ability to reveal smoother, brighter skin. But its true value is in the removal of vellus hair, a problem plaguing many aging women, as hormonal changes become the playbook guide.
How Dermaplaning Works: Involving the use of a sterile blade to exfoliate the surface of the skin, it not only removes dead skin, but fine vellus hair (peach fuzz), too. This process requires intricate training and a steady, confident hand to not nick or cut the skin. This procedure should remain firmly in the confident and well-trained hands of a skin care professional. This will also need to be a treatment performed regularly as the regrowth of the hair may feel rough to the touch.
5. LED Light Therapy
When it comes to LED, this is a fan favorite! LED was popularized by NASA which, after taking it to space to help Astronauts who were suffering from slow wound healing,11was the catalyst behind the immense uptick in research around LED and the wavelengths that science has now proven to be beneficial for human skin. In terms of conjunctive therapies, LED therapy is the perfect best-supporting player on the team. We need sunlight to survive and remain healthy. We know that certain wavelengths are harmful, the dangers of UVA and UVB have long been studied and proven. For human skin, only some wavelengths are beneficial. And, like microcurrent, each wavelength induces a different biological manifestation. LED has, until recently, been a professional-only play, but with the introduction of at-home mask versions of LED panels, consumers can not only enjoy this outstanding treatment as an add-on to any professional facial treatment, but take this technology home and use it with home care regimens. An excellent example of this would be to cleanse and tone with your favorite products, then perform cosmetic micro-needling, apply a water-based treatment product for a specific concern to a targeted area, utilize a Low-frequency sonophoresis device to enhance efficacy, and then occlude with a mask. If this mask happens to be a see-through hydrogel option, then one can top this off with an LED mask and treat for 20 minutes. An illuminating and brilliant performance choice!
How LED Light Therapy Works: Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) deliver a specific wavelength to the skin.12 When you see a rainbow, this is an example of the wavelengths of light that are non-ionizing and are not damaging to the skin like the more dangerous UVA or UVB wavelengths. Science has proven that 633 nm, red light therapy is scientifically known for its anti-aging benefits, as it stimulates collagen production and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.13
Blue light therapy at 414 nm, on the other hand, targets acne-causing bacteria, helping to clear and prevent breakouts.14 Other, newer wavelengths being used are exciting and offer a deeper level of regeneration at 1072 nm. This wavelength stimulates the benefits of the body’s natural defense and repair mechanisms, and in clinical trials, improves the appearance of skin complexion and reduces the appearance of under-eye puffiness.15
Tailoring your skin care arsenal for optimal results when striving for optimal skin care results, consider the most important concerns to address first. Understand your clients' worries and leverage skin physiology knowledge to recommend suitable products and devices. Incorporating cutting-edge devices will revolutionize your approach to skin health and beauty, offering radiant, youthful results for you and your clients.
References
1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6027320
2. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1303657
3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7250127
4. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11087051
5. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5967208
6. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8438644
7. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6261527
8. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9941239/
9. Wing, TW. Microcurrent Primer – Introduction and history of the chiropractic modality. The American Chiropractor; jan/feb:24+
10. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9941239/
11. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11776448/
12. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26155326/
13. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24286286/
14. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2923954/
Candace Noonan is a master trainer and director of education for DermaConcepts. She hosts trainings on the science of products and ingredients. She holds certificates for internationally recognized programs such as Advanced Skin Analysis, Dermal Needling and Oncology Esthetics, and is a frequent public speaker at medical and skin care conferences throughout the U.S.
