Working in the beauty industry, it can be hard at times to resist the siren song of viral products and ingredients on social media. If you’ve ever found yourself clicking ‘add to cart’ after scrolling the skin care side of TikTok, you are hardly alone.
Log in to view the full article
Working in the beauty industry, it can be hard at times to resist the siren song of viral products and ingredients on social media. If you’ve ever found yourself clicking ‘add to cart’ after scrolling the skin care side of TikTok, you are hardly alone.
As social platforms and influencer marketing increasingly drive consumer trends, it has become nearly impossible to avoid all the hype around popular skin care ingredients like snail mucin, tranexamic acid and others.
Fortunately, there is an upside to curiosity and continually trying new things. Every now and then, while testing out the latest products and trends to hit the market, I discover new-to-me ingredients that change the game. Here are a few I’ve been loving in recent seasons.
1. Snail Mucin
Derived from the natural substances secreted by snails, snail mucin was first used as a cosmetic ingredient by the ancient Greeks, and later popularized by K-Beauty brands. Today, snail mucin has been embraced by an even broader fanbase, as beauty lovers worldwide get to know its hydrating and plumping properties.
Although it’s hard to argue with the nearly instant glass skin effect associated with using snail mucin-based skin care products, it’s also worth taking a closer look at the compounds in the ingredient that make it so effective long-term. Snail mucin is naturally rich in glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid and other enzymes that support healthy skin function. For aging skin, it’s an excellent choice due to its hydrating, moisturizing and nourishing properties. It is even believed to promote collagen synthesis, helping to improve skin texture and elasticity with consistent use. Meanwhile, for sensitive or compromised skin, snail mucin is equally beneficial. It can be used to address skin redness and irritation, thanks to antimicrobial peptides that combat inflammation and encourage repair.
Tips and Tricks for Using Snail Mucin
Snail mucin is found mainly in serums, masks, and moisturizers, and layers well with other products. If used in the morning, it gives the skin a boost of extra glow, but it can be equally impactful for applying in the evening to calm the skin and support regenerative processes overnight.
In the treatment room, snail mucin could be used as a post-facial finishing product or you could apply a sheet mask infused with snail mucin following dermaplaning, microdermabrasion or enzyme exfoliation. After allowing the mask to sit according to instructions, gently massage any remaining product into the skin for maximum effect.
2. Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine that has been getting impressive results in scientific trials, and similarly positive reviews from consumers who use it to address pigment-related concerns – including dark spots, discoloration, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and even melasma. Studies conducted within the last decade have indicated that tranexamic acid can help to not only prevent, but reduce excess pigment in the skin by as much as 78.6% after eight weeks of twice daily use. It works by targeting tyrosinase and preventing the production of new melanin. It’s also been recognized as having fewer side effects, but equal efficacy, when compared to other well-known brightening ingredients like hydroquinone.
Using a serum containing tranexamic acid regularly in my own routine, I’ve noticed results on par with a good vitamin C serum, in terms of fading dark spots and reducing dullness. But, perhaps more excitingly, tranexamic acid pairs well with other antioxidants and can be used synergistically with vitamin C products, as long as both are well-tolerated by your skin.
Tips and Tricks for Using Tranexamic Acid
For clients concerned with dark spots or discoloration, skin care professionals would be remiss not to recommend tranexamic acid for home care. As with introducing any new ingredient into a client’s routine, an initial patch test is always recommended. Additionally, tranexamic acid is starting to appear in more professional treatment room products like peels and masks. It works beautifully in conjunction with alpha-hydroxy acids like lactic acid to target discoloration, and produce overall brightening benefits.
3. Hypochlorous Acid
As more and more skin care brands recognize the demand for products that address inflammation and promote barrier repair, another ingredient that’s been generating a lot of buzz lately is hypochlorous acid. Known for having potent antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, hypochlorous acid has been used since the early 1800s to clean wounds and fight infection in injured skin, but is now picking up traction as a beauty product.
Acting like a mild disinfectant, hypochlorous acid combats p.acne bacteria, which can help to prevent breakout activity. It has begun to appear as the star ingredient in toners, mists, and gentle cleansers, and is proving a popular option for skin prone to redness, rosacea, eczema and other inflammatory conditions.
Tips and Tricks for Using Hypochlorous Acid
One important caveat to be aware of when using hypochlorous acid is that it is said to decrease the efficacy of antioxidants, and therefore, shouldn’t be combined with most active ingredients. Rather than layering with other products, a best practice will be to wait at least 30 minutes before applying other formulas. That said, you might consider developing an acne protocol incorporating hypochlorous acid after cleansing and extractions, immediately followed by 30 minutes of blue light LED therapy to further target acne bacteria without counteracting the effects of any topical products used.
4. Mandelic Acid
Though it’s been an esthetic treatment room staple for decades, mandelic acid has been appearing more often as the key ingredient in formulas for both home care and professional treatment. Like other members of the alpha-hydroxy acid family, mandelic acid is plant-based. It is derived from bitter almonds and packed with antioxidants that promote repair, as well as encourage cellular turnover.
Mandelic acid is also unique in that it features a larger particle size, compared to other AHAs, and its molecular structure prevents it from being absorbed too quickly by the skin. Brands that cater to sensitive or reactive skin love mandelic acid because it provides the right amount of gentle resurfacing needed to address common concerns effectively – including acne, uneven texture, hyperpigmentation, congested follicles and signs of aging – without causing irritation. For this reason, it is also an excellent option for melanin-rich skin that is at high risk for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Tips and Tricks for Using Mandelic Acid
New mandelic acid-based peels and enzyme masks hitting the market mean more options for providers seeking an alternative to aggressive chemical exfoliation treatments. They’re also a great first peel for new clients or clients undergoing a progressive series. Additionally, because mandelic acid serums are also trending in the industry right now, beauty professionals would be wise to offer these as a retail home care, which clients can then use to enhance and prolong the results of professional services that incorporate mandelic acid.
5. Bakuchiol
For anyone who covets the youth-enhancing effects of retinol, but prefers a botanical alternative, bakuchiol has emerged as a promising option and is appearing in an increasing number of beauty formulas – including treatment masks, moisturizers and serums. Technically speaking, bakuchiol is a natural extract from the psoralea corylifolia plant, but at least one study, conducted in 2022, found that it produces results similar to retinol for supporting cellular regeneration, collagen synthesis, wound healing and fibroblast activity. Not ready to give up your retinol? Not a problem. Bakuchiol can be used in tandem with, or as a supplement to your favorite retinol products for added defense against oxidative stress and signs of photoaging, such as dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles.
Tips and Tricks for Using Bakuchiol
Licensed skin care professionals can offer bakuchiol-based serums to clients who are contraindicated to use retinols – including pregnant clients – as well as anyone who doesn’t tolerate retinols or simply prefers not to use them. Bakuchiol may also be an appropriate option for anyone who is new to skin care or skin care for age management, as a first step before working their way up to full-strength retinol products.
References
- “New topical tranexamic acid derivative for the improvement of hyperpigmentation and inflammation in the sun-damaged skin”. Published by Cosmetic Journal of Dermatology, February 2021.
- “Therapeutic Effects of Topical Tranexamic Acid in Comparison with Hydroquinone in Treatment of Women with Melasma”. Published by Dermatology and Therapy, September 2017.
- “Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing ‐ Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach”. Published by International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2022.
