Nothing makes your skin glow more than a facial massage. Unfortunately, while many clients understand the benefits of a body massage, they need to be educated on the benefits of facial massage. Facial massage can provide a multitude of benefits, including improvements in: skin texture, elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles and skin discoloration. To capitalize on this, facial massage “boutiques,” are now becoming popular at airports and department stores. However, estheticians can expand this concept so much more by creating a facial massage menu that compliments a full service salon and spa offering.
The Benefits of Facial Massage
Massage has many physiological and psychological benefits. When the body senses touch, reflex receptors respond by increasing blood and lymph flow. The central nervous system is affected, resulting in a state of relaxation.
Massage also helps provide clients with a glowing, healthy-looking complexion. Most clients enjoy the benefits of skin rejuvenation, but are surprised at how a facial massage can improve their overall wellness. For example, a study reported that massage significantly decreases cortisol levels (-31%), the chemical your body releases when you are stressed. Massage was also noted to increase levels of dopamine (+31%) and serotonin (+28%), neurotransmitters that are responsible for feelings of happiness and self-worth.1
Why Study Facial Massage?
Estheticians should have a thorough knowledge of facial massage because it is a fundamental service that provides skin benefits, enhances product effectiveness and provides relaxation. Learning and practicing to perfect your technique will allow you to provide your clients with superior results and create a loyal clientele. A facial massage is performed for approximately 10-15 minutes during a facial. The choice of massage techniques utilized during an express massage and facial depend on the client’s skin analysis and the focus of the treatment. To administer a complete and effective facial massage, have a thorough knowledge of the facial muscles and underlying skeletal structure.
The Five Major Facial Massage Movements
To administer a complete and effective facial massage, one should employ five forms of hand manipulation: effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement and vibration. This style of massage should involve a rhythmic movement to the skin and tissues. Therefore, choose a massage medium that will allow enough slip to complete the massage comfortably and successfully.
Effleurage. A light stroking movement is applied with the fingers (digital) and palms (palmar) in a slow and rhythmic manner.
Petrissage. This compression technique includes kneading, squeezing and pinching. This affects the deeper muscle tissue of the face.
Tapotement. The fingertips strike the skin in rapid succession as a percussive stroke.
Friction. To stimulate circulation and glandular activity, employ this invigorating rubbing technique. It can be performed in a circular manner or a crisscross manner with the fingers working in opposition to each other.
Vibration. This highly stimulating movement should be used sparingly. This is a shaking movement and is performed over wide areas.
Pre-treatment for Targeted Facial Massages
Luxe facial massages employ different combinations of classic massage movements, eastern style movements such as shiatsu as well as new types of massage tools. The following are four facial massage protocols that combine the benefits of skin care with massage catered to the client’s individual needs. Each massage protocol takes an estimated 30 minutes and is recommended weekly. For all the following protocols, follow the below pre-treatment steps.
Step 1. First secure the client’s hair and sanitize hands.
Step 2. Remove eye makeup by saturating cotton with a mild eye makeup remover. Have client close eyes and remove eye makeup using downward strokes. Rinse the eye area well with water and cotton.
Step 3. If needed, cleanse skin with cleanser appropriate to the client’s skin type using circular motions. Gently remove with cotton saturated in lukewarm water. Repeat rinsing to thoroughly remove any residue. Pat skin dry with tissue. Place a clean tissue over the client’s eyes and thoroughly mist face with hydrating toner. Gently pat dry with additional tissue.
Brightening Facial Massage
For dull, sallow skin with dark spots and hyperpigmentation, this massage helps even out the appearance of uneven skin tone (see Figure 1 for Brightening Massage Facial).
Step 4. Perform a facial massage to apply brightening skin serum to face and neck and massage with the following movements for five minutes.
a. Perform effleurage in circular motion around the face area in upward lifting movements.
b. Repeat movements 3-6 times, moving around the eyebrows as you circle the orbicularis oculi muscle.
c. Begin on the side of the nose, below the eye, and glide upwards between the eyebrows. Repeat movements 3-6 times.
d. Massage around the procerus muscles of the eyes in a figure eight movement, first over the brow, then under the eye along the orbicularis oculi muscles, then transitioning over the opposite side. Repeat movements 3-6 times.
e. Circle the client’s face. Go down the chin, then outward and upward onto the cheeks.
Step 5. Unfold a brightening sheet mask for dull, uneven skin and apply directly to face. Adjust mask to tightly contour the face and leave on for 10 minutes. Administer the following massage over the sheet mask with a silver ball massager (see illustrations in Figure 4 steps 4a-4d of Calming Massage Movements).
a. Start by placing the silver ball massager at the bridge of the nose, below the eye. Slowly glide ball towards the outer corner of the eye, stopping to apply slight pressure on the temple, then glide the ball towards the outer corner or the nostril, then back towards the ear. Perform 3-6 times.
b. Apply slight pressure on the outer corner of the nose, gliding under the orbital bone to the top of the ear, then glide back towards nostrils, up towards the middle of the ear, down to the corner of the mouth, out towards the side of the jaw and finish at center of the chin. Perform 3-6 times.
c. For the temporal area, slide the silver ball massager upwards towards the hairline and glide up and down in a wave motion, going back and forth across the forehead 3-6 times.
d. Place the silver ball massager on the top of the collarbone. Gently glide the ball right to the left across the neck, up onto the chin, then across the face, ending at the inside of the nose. Repeat two times, and then switch to the opposite. Perform identical movements three times.
Step 6. After proper time has elapsed, remove mask but do not rinse. Massage the residue with tapotement movements.
Step 7. Apply a brightening day cream to the entire face and neck area with light strokes. Follow with a mineral based UV filter cream, and a mineral based foundation.
Hydrating Facial Massage
For dry/normal sun damaged skin, this massage reveals glowing skin, replenishes skin with moisture and helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. This massage is not to be used on skin prone to acne or rosacea (see Figure 2 for Hydrating Facial Massage).
Step 4. Apply a lightweight skin serum and perform the following five-step massage.
a. Perform petrissage along the jawline, incorporating kneading friction. Perform 3-6 times.
b. Continue from the nostril to the top of the ear.
c. Starting from the cheeks, perform petrissage to the middle of the ear.
d. Start performing tapotement movements, patting along the jawline. Repeat 3-6 times.
e. Lightly tap all across the full face in a piano type tapotement movement with finger tips. Repeat 3-6 times.
Step 5. Apply a moisturizing mask. Adjust mask to fit tightly to the contours of the face and leave on for 10-15 minutes. While the mask is on, perform a hand and arm massage using a softening hand cream.
Step 6. Remove mask and mist skin with a lightweight, hydrating spray, and then blot with tissue.
Step 7. Apply a day cream to the entire face and neck area with light strokes. Follow with a mineral based UV filter cream and a mineral based foundation.
Uplifting Facial Massage
For all skin types, this massage hydrates and helps restore a radiant appearance to the skin (see Figure 3 for Uplifiting Facial Massage).
Step 4. After cleansing, perform a 10-15 minute massage utilizing the following movements.
a. Using your fingertips, create outward circular movements on either side of the forehead.
b. Apply pressure as you circle the eye area once, then cross over the opposite eyebrow to the temple area. Repeat twice.
c. Using your knuckles in circular movements, apply light pressure on the cheeks and jaw to help improve circulation and stimulate deep muscles.
d. Using middle fingers of both hands, circle the client’s face. Go down the chin, then outward and upward onto the cheeks. Fingers should go outside the eyebrows.
e. Apply pressure (shiatsu) with balls of fingers. End with gentle pressure on the temples.
Step 5. Apply a hydrating sheet mask to the face. Adjust mask tightly to the contours of the face and leave on for 10-15 minutes. While the mask is on, perform a hand and arm massage using a hand cream.
Step 6. Remove mask and mist skin with a lightweight, hydrating spray, and then blot with tissue.
Step 7. Apply a day cream to the face and neck area with light strokes. Follow with a mineral based UV filter cream and foundation.
Calming Facial Massage
For sensitive skin types, this massage helps soothe the appearance of sensitive skin (see Figure 4 for Calming Facial Massage).
Step 4. After cleansing and toning skin, apply a skin serum with antioxidants and softening ingredients to the face and neck using a silver ball massager.
Step 5. Apply a soothing sheet mask directly onto face. Adjust mask to fit tightly to the contours of the face and leave on for 10-15 minutes. Use a silver ball massager over the sheet mask to continue the facial massage, performing the following movements.
a. Start by placing the silver ball massager at the bridge of the nose below the eye. Slowly glide ball towards the outer corner of the eye, stopping to apply slight pressure on the temple, then glide the ball towards the outer corner or the nostril, then back towards the ear. Perform 3-6 times.
b. Apply slight pressure on the outer corner of the nose, gliding under the orbital bone to the top of the ear, then glide back towards nostrils, up towards the middle of the ear, down to the corner of the mouth, out towards the side of the jaw and finish at center of the chin. Perform 3-6 times, then repeat on the other side.
c. For the temporal area, slide the silver ball massager upwards towards the hairline and glide up and down in a wave motion, going back and forth across the forehead 3-6 times.
d. Place the silver ball massager on the top of the collarbone. Gently glide the ball right to left across the neck, up onto the chin, then across the face, ending at the inside of the nose. Repeat two times, then switch to the opposite side. Perform identical movements three times.
Step 6. After proper time has elapsed, remove mask but do not rinse. Massage the residue with tapotement movements.
Step 7. Apply a moisturizing day cream on face gently in upward and outward strokes. Follow with a mineral based UV filter cream and a mineral based foundation.
Maintain Connection
When performing massage, remember to maintain a relaxing flow and connection to the client with your hands. Do not remove your hands from the client’s face once you have made contact with the skin. Unbroken contact is soothing and calming and gives the client a sense of physical continuity. Should it become necessary to lift the hands from the client’s face, lift off the face lightly, then gently replace them with feather-like movements. When coming back to the face, gently make contact on the side of the face or top of the head to avoid startling the client. Keep one hand on the client’s body at all times if it is necessary to take one hand away (if you need to apply more product, for example).
Creating new and innovative experiences for the client is the most effective way to keep your business thriving. With facial massage services, clients will be surprised at how relaxing a facial can be, and they enjoy the benefits of skin rejuvenation as well as an overall feeling of well-being.
References
Lydia Sarfati is the founder and CEO of Repêchage. She appears internationally at trade shows, has produced 17 instructional videos and is a published author. For more information, visit www.repechage.com.
Figure 1 Brightening Facial Massage
Steps 4a-4e on movements for a brightening facial massage.
Figure 2 Hydrating Facial Massage
Steps 4a-4e on the hydrating facial massage technique.
Figure 3 Uplifting Facial Massage
Steps 4a-4e on the uplifting facial massage technique.
Figure 4 Calming Facial Massage
Steps 4a-4d on the calming facial massage technique.
