As we transition from summer to autumn, it’s prime time to get your clients back into your business to address any accrued summer skin damage. Increased exposure to UV, pollution, changing time zones and those flights to the Amalfi coast, will all take their toll on even the most well cared for skin. As external temperature and humidity levels can dip dramatically, like flicking a switch, skin can become dehydrated, dry and problematic. Some of your clients might even explain it as having “changed overnight!”
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As we transition from summer to autumn, it’s prime time to get your clients back into your business to address any accrued summer skin damage. Increased exposure to UV, pollution, changing time zones and those flights to the Amalfi coast, will all take their toll on even the most well cared for skin. As external temperature and humidity levels can dip dramatically, like flicking a switch, skin can become dehydrated, dry and problematic. Some of your clients might even explain it as having “changed overnight!”
This sudden loss of moisture coupled with stripping and degradation of skin barrier lipids can lead to dull, parched, itchy, even more sensitized skin. Beyond the traditional peel and exfoliation plan, tweaking your clients skin program for cooler drier months is critical, and this begins with providing a detailed skin analysis and assessment.
1. Hydration Reading Tool
Using a moisture reading tool on your client’s skin before and after their service is a good way to educate about both ingredients and services, while demonstrating the increased hydration immediately after the service. These pocket-sized handhelds work with a sophisticated sensor that runs a simple and extremely low current over the top of the skin to measure conductivity, which translates to indicating the level of dryness or hydration in the surface layers of the skin (See Hydration Reading Guide). It’s also valuable to be able to calculate moisture levels on the skin in multiple zones of the face (e.g. eye areas tend to have less moisture, which can link nicely to the need for an add on eye service and new eye cream).
In sophisticated units, each reading is displayed, saved and communicated during the skin analysis. This tool offers quick scientific guidance to clients and allows them to be an active participant in understanding why they need specific topical products and services. Be sure to chart your readings and measure your client on repeat visits.
This excellent and inexpensive tool is perfect for boosting service bookings and the sale of hydrating product solutions! Use it on every client, walk ins and hair and nail clients. You can also feature the device at autumn skin events to capture, engage and educate your guests.
Related: Realization of Hydration
2. Skin Analysis Headset
No longer the squeaky, unreliable mag lamp of old that you had to fiercely clutch for fear of bumping your client on the noggin, today’s upgraded options are hands free, lightweight headsets, with built in white LEDs. Some come with a collection of magnification lenses for you to swap out according to your viewing preferences and allow for adaptation for glasses. Modern alternatives incorporate touchpoints that are infused with silver ion particles to deliver antibacterial protection where the headset meets the wearers skin.
This tool is not only a major conversation starter to boost retail revenues in higher traffic environments, but it elevates both the wearer and the service. Literally magnifying what you see and being able to use both hands to examine hydration or lack thereof, dryness, roughness and hot spots allows for the ultimate fall skin analysis experience. Charting what is discovered on a skin map and investigating causes and options will educate your client, determine the course of action and solidify the next booking and at-home product regimen.
3. Ultrasonic Skin Scrubber
One of the easiest hacks to add to your fall skin protocols is to boost your manual cleansing step by adding an ultrasonic cleansing brush, or two, to your second cleanse. Much like your smart phone, this technology keeps improving, and some versions now offer ultrasonic technology that pulsate up to 24,000 vibrations per second, delivering a 600% improvement in cleansing versus using the hands alone. These ultrasonic waves dislodge dirt and debris and optimize the performance of your chosen cleanser or exfoliant.
Look for an anatomically optimized triangular cleansing head made of soft, pliable, silver ion infused silicone that effectively reaches crevices and contours without over stimulating or tearing at the skin like some circular nylon versions. Use over a gentle creamy cleanser for drier skin, or a hydroxy acid blend foam for dull, lackluster skin. Use and retail this device together with a cleanser to every single customer.
I call this device the “Swiss army knife” of skin tools, as every skin pro needs one, and you can use it in so many steps of the service due to the many functionalities in this handheld, lightweight technology. Also powered by ultrasound technology and sometimes referred to as a “skin spatula or applicator,” some versions provide oscillation up to 28,000 Hz for superior exfoliation, extractions and product application.
For removing congestion or dry, environmentally damaged skin cells, use with a chemical based exfoliant to deliver super smooth skin in minutes. If you are like me and are a fanatic about removing every impaction, you will love the ease of literally vibrating comedones gently out from even the tightest follicle when used in combination with a decongesting product.
To infuse much needed hydration and moisture with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, peptides, vitamins and other concentrated botanical actives, flip the applicator over and apply products. Freshly exfoliated skin provides a clean canvas for high-speed ultrasonic assisted application, allowing for products to deeply absorb and provide deep hydration skin benefits.
4. Wet and Dry Microdermabrasion
Wet, or hydro, microdermabrasion continues to be one of the top three most requested services in our industry by consumers. This modality has evolved greatly from the days of dry Aluminum Oxide (Corundum) crystals or Sodium Bicarbonate crystals being projected, then vacuumed up together with keratinized cells from the skin. The new generation of microdermabrasion machines use either liquids that are run through the machine or strategically sprayed products that can be applied and are then vacuumed up from the skin.
Specialized diamond encrusted abrasive tips are used and selected (from most coarse to fine) to progressively provide a specific exfoliation level for your clients. Advanced engineering handpiece models don’t over stretch or damage fragile skin, but instead gently lift and position the skin to meet these tips, allowing for any skin condition, turgor and Fitzpatrick type to be addressed safely. As the handpiece smoothly glides over the surface of the skin, the skin is thoroughly exfoliated, and the topical products boost skin clearing, hydration and brightening. Up to four passes can be performed, creating a customized service for smoother, firmer, brighter and thoroughly hydrated skin.
A small pro tip here is to do your research, as costs can range from $6,000 to nearly $30,000 for a machine. Some take up half of your room, while others sit easily on your trolley. Before you make a major investment, examine the price of any required consumable products, tips, etc., and do your homework on your cost per service, maintenance support and, most importantly, suitability for your clientele and price point in your area. Your profitability is as crucial as are the results achieved on the skin.
Related: 4 Questions To Ask Before You Bring in Body Devices
5. Nano Exfoliation
In a similar vein to wet and dry microdermabrasion, there is nano exfoliation or microexfoliation. This technology is delivered in a small handheld device that packs a real punch. Super lightweight or plastic models won’t hold up to wear and multiple use, so seek out ergonomic, robust units made of medical grade stainless steel that offer variable speeds with cartridge length and intensity options. Sterile, single use, medical grade silicone cartridges are also critical, as is the option for both battery and hard wire.
This technology works to exfoliate the skin with the oscillating nano tip cartridge contacting the skin in a very precise, controlled, rapid manner. The microscopic pyramid shape of the nano bumps also pushes topical cells apart for greater absorption of topicals. The dual action of controlled exfoliation, some units being able to deliver 16,000 RPMs, combined with the increased uptake of serum and mask ingredients make this a perfect fall service to offer your clients.
The small tip, unlike wet and dry microdermabrasion, also allows for you to get really close to the lip and eye area, which are normally hard to reach and control with a larger handpiece. In addition to a few passes for exfoliation with a hyaluronic acid-based serum, also add a “buffing” final pass over your vitamin and peptide containing serums prior to moisturizer and SPF application. Send clients home with super saturated infusion or hyaluronic repair sheet masks, so they can continue the deep hydration situation.
Technology Shopping
Buying larger investment technology can be overwhelming with the myriad of choices available to us as skin professionals. Do your research, get a service yourself before you buy, take education so you understand all of the features and benefits, ask other professionals questions, and work out your cost per treatment or service to make sure you can make your investment back quickly.
When speaking with a manufacturer or sellers ask about repairs, warranties and maintenance, and above all, do not go past go unless they have these certifications and guarantees below:
- Manufacturer Product Liability Insurance
- ISO 9001 and ISO 13485 Quality Certifications
- CE Safety Testing Declaration
- FDA licensed medical device manufacturer
- UL safety tested and compliant
The factors above may not be exciting, but they are smart and sensible just like that reliable comfortable pair of shoes versus that strappy stiletto! Don’t fall for the hype and glam. Ask the important questions, and get yourself a reliable workhorse that will last for many seasons, not just this coming fall.
Annet King is vice president of business development for Bio-Therapeutic. She served as the senior director of global education at Dermalogica for 19 years and most recently as the vice president of global education for Elemis.
