Acne is a common skin disease that affects over 85% of the population at some point and can be seen in all ethnicities. There are several contributing factors associated with acne including hormones, stress and nutrition, and in most cases, need a multi-faceted approach.
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Acne is a common skin disease that affects over 85% of the population at some point and can be seen in all ethnicities. There are several contributing factors associated with acne including hormones, stress and nutrition, and in most cases, need a multi-faceted approach.
There are several types of acne, which is important to understand however a three-step philosophy will address and clear any type of acne. Understanding the root cause and how each display in the skin will help you diagnose which type of acne you are working with to determine what products would get the best results. In some cases, it will be clear cut, but other times, it may be a process of elimination.
Hormonal Acne (Acne Vulgaris)
Hormonal acne, the most common type of acne, primarily affects adolescents. It is characterized by comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, cysts and sequelae (such as pitted or hypertrophic scars). Acne vulgaris is caused by Propionibacterium acnes, also known as P. acnes (bacteria) over producing and becoming trapped under the skin. In the treatment room, extractions are key with this type of acne.
It is extremely important to reduce scarring and really take care of the skin. Allow formulation to go to work for you and do most of the work when it comes to extracting. A combination of enzymes, acids and even refined oils will allow bacteria to easily come out of the skin and lessen potential damage we can cause to the cells.
A specialized formula with hydrogen peroxide, salicylic, lactic and glycolic acids, as well as retinol, provides excellent exfoliating support, stimulates blood flow in sluggish skin and makes the extraction process much easier. Steaming the skin with refined oils after an enzyme will help to soften cellular walls and create an easier surface for extractions. Do all you can to prevent scarring and further wounding the skin.
At home, find formulations that combine salicylic and azelaic acids or mandelic acid and argnine to breakdown cellular buildup, reduce impactions, balance excessive sebum production, smooth skin and provide strong antibacterial support. Always pair with epidermal growth factors or other ingredient to accelerate healing.
Cystic Acne
This type of acne is typically triggered from an excess of sebum and tight thickened cellular walls. This combination blocks oxygen from getting to the cells and the P. acne bacteria continues to increase. In some cases, due to the tightness of the keratin, it will start to grow underneath the skin. Typically, these lesions are not extractable and forcing this can lead to scarring, which is why using ingredients that help draw bacteria to the surface are recommended.
Clay masks in the treatment room and at home play a crucial role to achieving results. Find masks formulated with a blend of detoxifying clays to draw out impurities and salicylic acid for exfoliating support. Enhanced with melaleuca alternifolia oil for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory support and totarol to inhibit oxygen consumption, it effectively suffocates the P. acne bacteria without over drying the skin.
Acne Cosmetica
This type of acne is caused or stimulated by inferior cosmetics. Typically presenting as non-inflammatory, it is indicated by small, slightly raised red lesions, whiteheads and occasional pustules. This can usually be corrected by eliminating the acne-producing cosmetics and replacing it with non-comedogenic products and a home regimen focused on cleansing and protecting the skin.
For professional treatments, a gentle deep pore cleansing will go a long way, and for home care use, a healthy, non-active cleanser with zeolite can do wonders. Zeolite traps and removes toxins on the skin. Make sure to switch makeup to a healthy mineral finisher, and communicate the short- and long-term benefits of ALWAYS removing your makeup by washing your face properly before going to bed.
Related: Trend vs. Treatment: The Acne Facial
Acne Mechanica
This is acne that forms because of friction and constant pressure, or repetitive physical trauma to the skin such as rubbing from hats, face masks, phones, sunglasses, etc. Professional exfoliation treatments using enzymes with pumpkin extract and a home-care regimen that includes a clarifying essential with salicylic acid and/or mandelic acid will help restore the skin to health.
It's key to have discussion on how to clean inside of hats, helmets, phones, etc.
Overall Clear Skin Philosophy
One of the key emphases is realizing acne is a wound. If we understand this, it will assist us as we look at the best plan of action. Let’s look at three areas to bring into every professional treatment and home care regimen:
- Reduce bacteria and inflammation,
- Increase cellular exfoliation,
- Support healthy wound healing.
Reduce Bacteria and Inflammation
Bacteria is often our focus when trying to clear acne lesions. Bacteria can spread and get trapped underneath the skin wreaking more havoc, and if not tamed, will lead to infection and scarring.
Inflammation is created in the skin due to the wound the bacteria is causing, and if left untreated, will cause scarring and put the skin in a vulnerable position. Initially inflammation is a friend to the skin, however, prolonged inflammation can exasperate and ultimately create a never-ending cycle impeding the healing and clearing of acne.
Many ingredients for eliminating bacteria can be harsh on the skin and cause further inflammation or wounding. It is very important to find ingredients or overall formulas that not only deal with the bacteria, but address inflammation. Some key successful options are salicylic acid (percentage and form matters), mandelic acid, ursolic acid, totarol and the heart of green tea, which work to purify the skin, ridding it of harmful P. acnes bacteria. In addition, these ingredients greatly reduce unsightly redness and bring clarity to mottled and uneven tone.
Increase Cellular Exfoliation
Exfoliation in skin care is nothing new, however, it has evolved over the last decade or two. In acneic skin, it is a crucial step. The P. acne bacteria tries to survive by thickening the cellular wall around our cells. This keeps oxygen for getting into the skin and in turn keeps the bacteria alive and able to spread. It is important to begin light exfoliation in the early teens to prevent bacteria from gaining any traction.
Exfoliation not only increase oxygen, but reduces cellular build-up, prevents micro-comedones from forming, reduces risk of scarring and address large pore size. Specialized formulas containing mandelic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, papaya extract, diatomaceous earth will help to remove the build-up and keep pores clean, while smoothing the overall texture. This a crucial step in any acne regimen and should be customized to fit specific exfoliation needs. Grade of acne, type and age can all determine the level of exfoliation necessary.
Support Healthy Wound Healing
Remember these acne lesions are actually a wound on the skin, and whenever our skin gets wounded, a process of wound healing begins. The skin wound healing process does not address bacteria, so our skin becomes confused and is not able to fix this wound, which in turn leads to a host of others skin issues.
We can accelerate the healing of lesions and reduce scarring on the skin with wound healing ingredients like epidermal growth factors, l-arginine, d-alpha tocopherol and zinc oxide. Redness and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation will diminish as the skin is healed, strengthened and made less vulnerable to p. acnes bacteria.
Effective Acne Management
When it comes to acne skin, there is no one-size-fits all. Cleansing is a must as in any routine. Choosing an active cleanser with acids or a non-active cleanser will vary. A corrective that address the bacteria, inflammation and exfoliation is essential. Again, many formulations will range in strength, so it is your job to find the right option for the type of acne and lifestyle. Lastly bring in a wound healing and further anti-inflammatory support. These can range too, but in most cases, an epidermal growth factor gel is pretty universal and the results are amazing.
Effective acne management starts with proper diagnosis and frequent check-ins with a skin care professional to ensure proper management and effective treatment. The result is a clear, healthy complexion and a renewed confidence as we bring all of this together: reduce bacteria and inflammation, increase exfoliation and add wound healing ingredients.
Shannon Esau the CEO and national educator at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals. She brings more than 20 years experience in the esthetic industry. Esau owned skin care salons in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, has studied chemistry in skin care formulations and has been mentored by Rhonda Allison for decades. www.RhondaAllison.com and www.REDmethod.com. For more information about Pigmentation Solutions, go to rapigmentationsolutions.com.