Oils and Comedogenicity

There is a huge misconception that those with acneic skin should avoid using oils at all costs. It’s actually the opposite! Of course, there are comedogenic oils that acne-prone individuals will need to avoid, but all skin requires a balance of both water and oil to remain healthy. This balance of water and oil ensures that the skin barrier is functioning properly and is preventing transepidermal water loss. Without a healthy barrier, we are susceptible to irritants, pollutants and various skin conditions. It’s important to know the difference between hydration and moisturization to ensure the skin is getting enough of both, as these terms are not interchangeable. Hydration is defined by the application of water-binding ingredients such as beta glucan and hyaluronic acid to the skin. Moisturization is defined by the application of oil-based emollient products to the skin. There are plenty of oils found in acne-safe formulations, such as argan, apricot seed, jojoba and sunflower seed oils.

Oils and the Acne-Prone Client

When it comes to oils to avoid, we are looking at anything with a three to five rating on the comedogenic scale such as coconut, flax seed and carrot seed oils. As defined by Skin Library, “Comedogenic is the tendency for an ingredient to clog our pores. Anything that disrupts the sebum outflow on our skin can lead to the formation of comedones.”1 The comedogenic scale is used to rank ingredients on how likely they are to clog pores (See Comedogenic Scale). Retention hyperkeratosis, otherwise known as acne, is a hereditary disorder of the pore. Using comedogenic products can exacerbate the condition of acne. Individuals with acne-prone skin need to be especially aware of comedogenicity.

The oils that you find in skin and hair care formulations are primarily made up of essential fatty acids. There are two main types of fatty acids that we look at to determine the comedogenicity of an ingredient: linoleic acid and oleic acid. Typically, higher linoleic acid oils are less comedogenic and higher oleic acid oils are more comedogenic. Of course, this is not an exact science 100% of the time. Every person will react differently to different things, but this is the standard for what most people will experience.

Some skin care professionals will recommend that their clients not use any product with ingredients falling between one and five on the comedogenic scale. This can become a major deterrent for clients who are taking the time to check their ingredient decks. In the last 17 years, we found that clients typically only need to avoid products with ingredients falling between a three and five rating on the scale. This makes it much more realistic to find acne-safe makeup, hair care, laundry products, etc. Some common comedogenic oils (on a three to five scale) include squalene (shark liver oil), sulfated jojoba and castor oil, soybean oil and cotton seed oil.

Important Oils in Skin Care

As mentioned above, our skin requires a certain amount of oil to remain healthy and function properly. How exactly do we achieve and keep this balance? It’s not just applying singular oils directly to the skin. A few ways to incorporate oils into a skin care regimen are described below.

Creamy Cleansers. Sorella Apothecary’s Apricot Mango Cleansing Milk contains apricot oil. This oil has a comedogenic rating of two and contributes soothing, healing and anti-inflammatory properties.

Moisturizers and Sunscreens. Face Reality Skincare’s Clearderma moisturizer utilizes safflower oil. This oil has properties that enhance tone and texture, and boasts a comedogenic rating of zero.

Facial Oils. Osmosis Beauty’s Immerse Facial Oil contains emu oil. This oil has a comedogenic rating of one and has skin rejuvenating properties.

Other Comedogenic Ingredients

When determining whether a product is going to be comedogenic or not, it’s not only the oils you need to watch out for. There are many comedogenic ingredients in several different mediums that can be found in all kinds of skin and hair care formulations. Some examples of comedogenic ingredients (on a three to five scale) that are not oils are seaweed, cocoa butter, algae extract and sodium laureth sulfate. It is extremely helpful to be well versed in comedogenic ingredients so you can educate and prepare your clients to avoid products that can trigger or worsen acne. A better prepared client is a more compliant client. It’s also important to educate clients on ingredient claims; just because the front of a bottle says oil-free, acne-safe, or all natural does not necessarily mean that it’s good for their skin. There is also a distinct possibility that the label is making an outright false claim. There is very little governance on label claims, making it that much more important to study the ingredient deck of a product.

Educate Clients

Don’t be afraid to incorporate oils into the routines of acne-prone clients. But, be aware of the comedogenic scale and comedogenic oils and other ingredients that will need to be avoided. Always educate clients on the implications of using comedogenic products, but make it easy for them to determine whether they should be using something. It can be extremely time-consuming checking products for every client. It is helpful to provide them with a list of comedogenic ingredients, so that when they are shopping around for new makeup, hair care, or bath products, they can recognize which products are safe and which products are not. Empower your clients to double and triple-check ingredient decks before using a product. Encouraging your clients to check ingredients will foster a sense of accountability and partnership with you. They will come to appreciate not only the guidance you provide, but the knowledge you impart.

Alex Hernandez is a licensed esthetician and the clinic manager and lead educator at the Face Reality Acne Clinic in San Leandro, CA. She became a Face Reality Certified Acne Expert in 2018 and has worked with hundreds of acne clients in her esthetics career.