Is Snow Mushroom the New & Improved Hyaluronic Acid?

Who would have thought, traipsing through the forest back in 200 A.D., someone would stop to think: “Let’s try this weird, curly, jelly-like fungus growing on a tree.” Thankfully they did, because as it turns out, snow mushroom, or Tremella fuciformis, has been described as one of the great superfood mushrooms and longevity tonic herbs used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM).¹

Snow mushroom is a wild edible mushroom native mainly to tropical and subtropical climates but extending into temperate areas.² It is known by various names (e.g., white jelly mushroom, yin er, white jelly fungus, white jelly leaf, silver ear mushroom and chrysanthemum mushroom).¹ It grows on tree bark and branches, especially on broad-leaved trees.³

Traditional and Health Applications

While used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries,² snow mushroom was first described in 1856 by English mycologist Miles Joseph Berkeley, based on collections made in Brazil by botanist and explorer Richard Spruce.⁴ Original applications include disease prevention, boosting immunity and improving skin appearance.⁵

Snow mushroom is also used in Chinese cuisine. While generally tasteless, the mushroom lends its gelatin-like texture to sweet dishes, in particular. For example, it is used in the dessert soup known as luk mei, typically combined with jujubes, dried longans and other ingredients. It also is used in beverages and ice cream.²

Research in more recent decades reports similar health benefits, including: anti-tumor, immunomodulatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, impaired brain memory repair, anti-inflammatory, hypoglycemic, anti-ulcer, anti-thrombosis and hypocholesterolemic, many of which have been attributed to polysaccharides in snow mushroom.^{3, 6-8} Additional substances found in T. fuciformis included fatty acids, proteins, enzymes, phenols, flavonoids, dietary fiber and trace elements.

Skin Benefits

Moisturization, anti-aging: Snow mushroom has previously been praised for skin benefits similar to that of hyaluronic acid (HA).⁹ For example, a consumer source reported HA can hold roughly 1,000 times its weight in water and snow mushroom can hold 500× — which may only be half that of HA but is still a hydration boost.¹⁰ In relation, the actives in snow mushroom are reported to be smaller than hyaluronic acid, enabling them to penetrate skin more easily.¹¹

One cosmetic ingredient supplier also identified the hydrating efficacy in snow mushroom, claiming that the ingredient’s glucuronic acid content is what naturally binds moisture to the skin for hydration.^a This, in turn, plumps fine lines and wrinkles and enhances skin elasticity, leaving it smooth and supple.¹²

A second ingredient developer highlighted its T. fuciformis sporocarp extract, which it describes as a natural hyaluronic acid mimetic with moisturization and water retention properties.^b The product is said to provide added antioxidant benefits while addressing trending consumer themes of natural, bio-mimetic and wellness.¹³

A review article published in the Indian Journal of History of Science supports these hydrating claims. It, too, reported the excellent moisturizing and antiwrinkle effects of snow mushroom, and its ability to improve skin texture and increase skin flexibility.¹⁴

Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory effects: Snow mushroom also offers antioxidant properties, thanks to its polyphenol content, which protects the skin against free radical damage and premature aging.^12,15 More specifically, EOL reported snow mushroom increases the presence of superoxide dismutase in the brain and liver—and this enzyme acts as a potent antioxidant throughout the body, particularly in the skin.⁴

An in vitro study published in Hindawi supports this antioxidant claim for snow mushroom. Here, researchers found the mushroom’s polysaccharides inhibited induced oxidative stress – as well as inflammation.⁸ In fact, the natural anti-inflammatory effects of mushroom are said to soothe and calm the skin and can benefit formulas for acne-prone and sensitive skin types.¹²

Wound healing: With more than 18 types of amino acids, snow mushroom also has been purported to support cell growth for wound healing applications and its vitamin D content to heal acne lesions.⁹ A recent mini review, published in Food Research, reports on work that supports this claim.¹⁶

More specifically, it describes a study using a porcine skin wound model where a purified polysaccharide extract from snow mushroom significantly promoted healing as well as enhanced collagen production up to 26%. The authors noted this wound healing effect could also be due to the antioxidant activity of the mushroom polysaccharides since free radicals damage cell epithelization.¹⁶

Film-forming capabilities: Snow mushroom also is said to form a flexible, hydrating film with good sensory effects that helps to restore dry skin to its optimally hydrated state, improving elasticity.¹¹ A report in Molecules also describes this ability of the T. fuciformis polysaccharide.¹⁷ In turn, the film improves water retention rate in skin, resulting in anti-wrinkle and natural moisturizing effects. It can also be used to protect the skin from photoaging due to UV.

Skin-brightening benefits: In addition, snow mushroom has been reported in consumer sources to inhibit melanin production by 59.7%, making it useful for skin-brightening products.¹¹ A study published in In vivo validates this claim. Here, melanin and tyrosinase levels in murine cells were measured after treatment with T. fuciformis, which significantly decreased melanin content and tyrosinase expression in a concentration-dependent manner.¹⁸

The same study also examined wound healing effects in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts and concurred with previous findings supporting this effect. However, the authors noted further clinical studies for safety and efficacy are required.

Related: Snow Mushroom Could be the New Hyaluronic Acid

In the Spa

Snow mushroom has made quite the impact in the spa and skin care world thanks to its extra hydrating benefits. Often compared to hyaluronic acid, snow mushroom has become well-known for its countless skin benefits. This is why you can find it in a multitude of ingredients sold and used in the spa.

Wild Elements uses snow mushroom in the Smoothing Body Serum uses this fermented ingredient to plump the skin while smoothing and tightening through supporting collagen production. This body serum also helps to support the skin barrier for a visibly radiant appearance.

Swissline’s Cell Shock White Brightening Intensified Night Cream hydrates, smooths and reduces redness in the skin. The hydrating benefits of this ingredient are powered by the benefits of snow mushroom, and it’s paired with vitamin A and C for anti-aging and antioxidant benefits.

Snow mushroom is the main hydrator working alongside of hyaluronic acid in Sorella Apothecary’s Main Squeeze Hydrating Serum. This lightweight, ultra-hydrating serum pairs snow mushroom with peptides for immediate, super-increased plumping hydration, while developing elasticity.

Finally, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention how Éminence Organic Skin Care utilizes snow mushroom in thier Moisture Eye Cloud Eye Cream as well as their Snow Mushroom & Reishi Mask. Both of these products are popular in the back bar and on retail shelves in spas. Both of these products highlight snow mushroom as their star ingredients and have them work alongside of powerful botanicals.

Conclusions

Snow mushrooms deliver a dense array of benefits for skin. It’s a good thing the ancients saw their broader potential through—and on—the trees.

Rachel Grabenhofer, ELS, is the managing scientific editor of Cosmetics & Toiletries, Skin Inc.’s sister brand for cosmetic chemists. She’s a member of the Skin Microbiome Council and Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and for several years, led judging panels to honor the best ingredients in cosmetics.