Shannon Esau, CEO and National Educator at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals
We now know how important ancestry is in creating beautiful outcomes on the skin. It can shape how the skin will respond to certain topicals and treatments, and we must take it into account when creating effective, and safe, skincare plans for clients. To truly understand the skin—of any color—it requires we go beyond the skin’s tone or challenges. We must understand its origins.
While tone does help identify characteristics such as melanocyte size and melanin breakdown, there is much more that must be addressed when working with skin of any color—starting with a few common challenges specific to certain ancestries:
- Asian skin – as this skin type is more sensitive and prone to PIH (acne discoloration) it responds best to progressive peels and corrective facials performed in a series. Microdermabrasion and AHA’s should be used with caution and product selection must be kept to a minimum to determine what is most suitable to the skin.
- Black skin – prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), keloid formation, and pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB). This skin type generally responds well to a more rapid progression and fairly aggressive topicals that stimulate cell turnover, brighten tone and provide antibacterial support.
- Caucasian skin – premature aging, dryness and rosacea. Care plans for this skin type should be determined based on skin history and specific skin challenges.
- Latin and Hispanic skin – hyperpigmentation, scarring, PIH, and uneven skin tone. Progressive treatments and corrective facials are generally best to start with for this skin type, particularly if there is scarring or hyperpigmentation. This skin type tends to produce more oil which allows for more aggressive treatments with caution.
Intelligent Ingredients for Beautiful Skin
Taking the above into account, though every client will differ based on skin type and condition, there are a few intelligent ingredients that work very well with skin of any color to produce beautiful results. Some include:
- Epidermal growth factor (EGF) – an essential protein and powerful cell regenerator that supports cell renewal and wound repair.
- Mandelic acid – a safe acid that may be used successfully on all skins of color. Derived from almonds, this antiseptic acid has lightening and restorative properties.
- Daisy flower (bellis perennis) extract – a gentle, yet highly effective natural skin lightener that influences different pathways involved in melanin formation, counteracting age spots and balancing hyperpigmentation.
- Retinal – a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid and assists in the synthesis of collagen, blood vessel formation and cell regeneration.
- Melanin suppressants – typically a combination of natural lightening ingredients such as kojic acid, L-arbutin, azelaic acid, L-ascorbic acid and ingredients that provide antibacterial and antioxidant support, while minimizing PIH.
- Zinc oxide – provides natural sun barrier, antimicrobial, antioxidant and soothing, healing support.
To produce beautiful results for skin of any color, you must go beyond the surface. It all begins with really knowing your client and understanding the different traits of their ancestry.
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