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The Next Generation of Anti-aging

By: Abby Penning
Posted: January 30, 2012, from the February 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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It is also about helping clients understand what products do, as well as what products they should be looking for to treat particular problems. “In the past, it has always been about wrinkles, but now consumers are savvier and have a better understanding of what it means to age in terms of their looks,” says Michael Anthonavage, technical fellow for skin care at Presperse. “People are now seeking out products for treating focused skin problems, such as texture and pigmentation versus general anti-aging claims, as well as products for the hands, neck and décollétage. These areas are new frontiers for us, especially because an ingredient used for facial skin doesn’t necessarily work the same as it does on the arms, where many vendors tend to test materials.”

Working together

Often, even though marketing and promotional efforts focus on one anti-aging ingredient contained in a product, the best way for a product to be more effective is for it to include a collection of anti-aging ingredients that work well together.

“A combination of ingredients is what is going to make the biggest impact on people’s skin,” says Bernstein. “The skin has many extracellular matrix components, living cells and various growth factors all working together to maintain homeostasis, so when it needs to be repaired or healed, all these ingredients need to work together to stimulate healing or rejuvenation. It’s just how the skin works. You need that bunch of synergistic ingredients to come together and work at the right time to get the best results.”

Some of the most popular current—and upcoming—anti-aging ingredients include human growth hormones and stem cells, new antioxidants and peptides, as well as minerals and vitamins that work in concert with these ingredients.

“Next generation antioxidants are great, because consumers seem to really identify with what antioxidants do,” says Anthonavage. “Now it’s just a matter of figuring how to formulate with them properly, because some of them are really, really powerful, and you have to deal with aesthetic issues, such as how astaxanthin is blood red. There are also new ingredients that are growing up or evolving from ingredients such as vitamin E and coenzyme Q10, and it is pretty cool to see the progression.”