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Play It Safe With Summer Treatments

Rhonda Allison May 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
Summer treatments

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The lazy days of summer ... when everything seems to slow down, trips are planned, time is taken off work, and some well-deserved rest and relaxation is sought. However, for those in the professional skin care industry, it may be just the opposite, because business often picks up with more and more clients taking advantage of downtime to get corrective, rejuvenating treatments.

Although the timing for these types of treatments may prove ideal for clients, it may present some challenges for the skin. Administering peels and other corrective treatments during the summer months does require caution and awareness since skin becomes even more vulnerable to sun damage, heat and other elements.

This need not deter professionals from performing much-requested skin-changing services. With extra precautions and planning, you can bolster the protection of the skin and simultaneously reverse the effects of photoaging, supporting clients with their skin care goals. There are some very specific points skin care professionals must know about caring for the skin—both face and body—after peels and corrective treatments during the summer months.

Corrective cautions

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Treatment How-to: Hibiscus and Vitamin A Peptide Summer Peel

For this rejuvenating corrective treatment, recommend that the client bring a sun hat to the appointment and park close by. In extreme heat, have someone start the car for your client so she is not getting into an extremely hot vehicle after this service.

Duration: 30 minutes

Cost: $150–175

Contraindications: Do not perform this treatment on clients using tretinoin or isotretinoin, with sunburned skin or active skin conditions, or who are pregnant or lactating; immediately following Botox or other injectables; or immediately prior to or following waxing.

Equipment and supplies needed:

2 x 2 cotton gauze

Firm brush

2-inch cotton gauze

Various gauze pads

Warm water


Products needed:

Milk-based cleanser

Lactic-based cleanser

Salicylic cleansing pads

Natural brightening lotion

Phytic and pyruvic flower acid peel solution

Retinol/peptide serum peel

Step 1: Prepare the skin with a thorough three-step cleanse using a milk-based cleanser, followed by a lactic-based cleanser and salicylic cleansing pads. Layered cleansing is an effective way of preparing the skin for peel solutions or active enzymes without having to do a strong prep.

Step 2: Prepare and de-fat skin with two saturations of a brightening lotion containing natural brightening agents, such as daisy flower. Keep this a milder, nonstripping lipid-reducer with the intent to further remove surface oils and infuse a balance of lightening support.

Step 3: With 2 x 2 gauze, apply firm pressure, working lotion into the skin. Let it absorb and dry.

Step 4: Apply a second layer in the opposite direction for more saturation. Ensure skin is completely dry.

Step 5: Using a firm brush, apply an even layer of a phytic and pyruvic flower acid peel solution to skin. Wait 5 minutes.

Step 6: Saturate 2-inch gauze with the peel solution and apply a second layer with firm pressure. Wait 10 minutes.

Step 7: Remove with warm water and gauze pads. Rinse well and pat skin dry. Using a gentler blend of acids begins the cellular breakdown of skin cells without overstimulating and creating a hot burn. This minimizes inflammation.

Step 8: Apply an even layer of a retinol/peptide serum peel to skin. Let it remain on the skin. The advantage of an “overnight” peel is that it creates less trauma, yet effectively begins the regeneration process.

Step 9: Instruct clients to do nothing to the skin for 24 hours, and avoid sun or heat exposure.

Step 10: After 24 hours, the client may spray the skin with a chilled humectant antioxidant spray and wear SPF 30. During the exfoliation process, give the client additional post-care topicals to keep skin moist and support healing. Daily post-care is a very important part of the recovery of any corrective or peel treatment. Skin will be completely healed in 7–10 days. This is a perfect time to bring the client back for a Double Cooling Mask Treatment.

Treatment How-to: Double Cooling Mask Treatment

Duration: 60 minutes

Cost: $75–95

Contraindications: Suitable for most skin types

Equipment and supplies needed:

Cotton gauze pads

Ice globes

Tepid water

Products needed:

Milk-based cleanser

Chilled papaya- and pineapple-based enzyme gel

Chilled mist of vitamins and antioxidants

Marine-based serum

Chilled rosemary and basil-based mask or cooling clay-based mask

Epidermal growth factor-based serum or cream

Cooling moisturizer

Mineral SPF 30 sunscreen

Step 1: Prepare the skin with a milk-based cleanser, followed by a chilled papaya and pineapple-based enzyme gel to gently lift away surface skin cells.

Step 2: Next, apply a chilled tonic of vitamins and antioxidants misted onto the skin. Use tapotement to work into the skin.

Step 3: Apply a marine-based serum containing microorganisms, such as Thermus thermophilus and pseudoalteromonas, and layer with a chilled rosemary/basil-based mask or a cooling clay-based mask with soothing elements. Apply dampened gauze to face and ice the skin by rolling ice globes across face for an invigorating massage that lasts 10 minutes or longer.

Step 4: Remove with tepid water and gauze pads. Pat skin dry.

Step 5: Finish with an epidermal growth factor-based serum or cream, which supports cell renewal and encourages wound-repair, and moisturizers that reduce flushing and are cooling, including ingredients such as rhodiola root.

Step 6: Complete the treatment with the application of a mineral-based SPF 30 sunscreen.

Sensational Summer Ingredients

Sensational Summer Ingredients

Although there are a variety of peel and enzyme formulas available, the following are particularly nice for summer.

  • Papain. Clients love the tantalizing scent of this enzyme derived from papayas, especially when combined with the natural pineapple scent of bromelain. Papain works to digest keratin proteins to help accelerate exfoliation. It also provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support, and is rich in vitamins C and E, and beta carotene.
  • Bromelain. A proteolytic enzyme extracted from pineapples, bromelain converts proteins into peptides and amino acids.
  • Flavonoids. Powerful polyphenol compounds derived from red superfruits—such as apples (malic acid), grapes (tartaric acid), cherries, pomegranates and tomatoes—flavonoids are rich in antioxidants and offer gentle digestive and exfoliating support. They help soften fine lines, smooth and polish skin, and stimulate blood flow, while toning and firming.
  • Mandelic acid. Derived from bitter almonds, this acid promotes healing and boosts collagen levels. It has lightening and antibacterial properties.
  • Flower acids. Classified as second-generation alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), flower acids help increase cell turnover, as well as provide hydration. They are also nonirritating, with good cutaneous tolerance.
  • Retinol (vitamin A peels). A vitamin-A derivative, retinol stimulates new growth of tiny blood vessels, which speeds up collagen production. It helps reverse signs of aging by minimizing fine lines and photodamage.


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