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Building a Re-youth Program for Clients

By: Rhonda Allison
Posted: October 31, 2013, from the November 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

page 3 of 7

The primary extrinsic culprit of hyperpigmentation is the sun. In many cases, the effects can be amplified with medications and chemicals, including perfume. In all hyperpigmentation cases, however, sun exposure inevitably makes it worse. Common causes include:

  • Medications and chemicals;
  • Sun exposure;
  • Hormonal changes;
  • Pregnancy—often resulting in melasma; and
  • Acne trauma and inflammation.

There are many treatments for hyperpigmentation, from melanin-suppressants, to peels and mild home-care systems. A client skin assessment is necessary to determine which route is the best fit for each individual client. Treatment results vary greatly depending on discoloration level (cellular or superficial). Through a combination of home-care and professional treatments, there can be significant change and correction.

In the treatment room, combine both brightening and skin-building ingredients, because the goal is to correct the issue and set the skin on the right path. Ingredients that work to correct discoloration, inhibit melanin synthesis, brighten and treat post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, include:

  • Salicylic and glycolic acid to begin the regeneration process;
  • Ten percent trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and AHA to further breakdown dead surface cells, increase regeneration, soften fine lines, reduce hyperpigmentation and improve skin tone;
  • Kojic acid, azelaic acid, L-arbutin, Bellis perennis (daisy) to aid in suppressing melanin and provide support to minimize post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; and
  • Retinol, L-carnitine and tripeptides to improve uneven pigmentation and produce radiant skin, while peptides help to rebuild the skin.

A customized and complete regimen focused on correcting and rebuilding the skin will create a more even skin tone, significantly lighten discoloration, improve texture, smooth fine lines and leave skin radiant. With any brightening program, be sure to incorporate a growth factor formula and daily sunscreen.

Rebuilding collagen

Collagen is the main component of connective tissue and the most abundant protein in mammals. It forms in elongated fibrils found in the tendons, cartilage, bones, blood vessels and skin, among other areas.

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