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Building a Re-youth Program for Clients

Rhonda Allison November 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
Building a Re-youth Program for Clients

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Editor’s note: As always, Skin Inc. magazine recommends that skin care professionals obtain the proper training before offering any new treatments in their skin care facility.

Hyperpigmentation, acne, dehydration and uneven texture are just a few skin challenges clients struggle with, but there is perhaps none more pervasive than aging. Although you may not be able to stop the inevitable hands of time, it is possible to help clients effectively fight the signs of aging and maintain a healthy, youthful appearance.

This requires an integrated re-youth plan that addresses a variety of issues depending on the client’s skin, as well as intrinsic and extrinsic factors. There are, of course, a few integral components anti-aging regimens should include to help clients achieve their goals. Understanding the primary issues that cause skin to appear aged—such as pigmentation, cellular damage and moisture loss—enable skin care professionals to address previous damage, and help restore skin to optimal health and vibrancy.

Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate

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Treatment How-to: Aging Skin Facial

The primary goals of this treatment are to minimize lines and wrinkles, improve tone and texture, stimulate collagen production and rejuvenate, resulting in hydrated, healthy and vibrant skin. Note: Proper training should be acquired before administering a peel.

Cost: 45 minutes

Duration: $225–275

Contraindications: Clients should not be on tretinoin or isotretinoin; or be pregnant, lactating or prone to herpes simplex (unless on a prescription, such as aciclovir). Avoid rendering treatment on those with sunburned skin or anyone on multiple medications—check with their physician first. Overall, this treatment is unlikely to cause complications unless the skin is extremely AHA-sensitive.

Supplies and equipment needed:

Warm water

Gauze sponges

2-inch gauze strips

Hand-held fan

Cotton pads

Surgical gloves

Dry towels

Cool water


Products needed:

Pumpkin- or glycolic-based cleanser

Multi-acid jojoba bead scrub

Glycolic and salicylic acid-based regenerating lotion

Liquid enzyme peel (combination enzyme of 10% lactic acid, 10% papain, 3% acetic complex and 4% salicylic acid)

10% TCA- and AHA-based formula

Wine peel formula (combination of red wine
vinegar/acetic acid complex, L-lactic and L-malic acid)

Formula containing Thermus thermophillus

Step 1: After completing a thorough client intake form, lather and work the cleanser into the skin. Rinse with warm water using gauze sponges.

Step 2: Massage the scrub onto the skin for several minutes. Rinse, remove with warm water using gauze sponges and dry completely.

Step 3: Tone skin by applying the regenerating lotion. Saturate a 2-inch gauze and apply onto the entire face and neck with firm strokes. Wait 1 minute.

Step 4: Provide client with a hand-held fan and cover her eyes with cotton pads. Wearing surgical gloves, apply the liquid enzyme onto the skin. Leave on for 5 minutes. Remove with warm water using a gauze sponge. Rinse well and pat skin dry with towel.

Step 5: Starting with completely dry skin, smooth one layer of the TCA- and AHA-based formula onto the skin. Let it absorb, leaving on for approximately
1 minute.

Step 6: Wearing surgical gloves, apply one layer of a wine peel formula onto skin. Be sure to protect the client’s eyes, ears and mouth with gauze and cotton pads. Wait 5 minutes, then apply a second layer. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the peel formula and apply second layer with firm pressure starting at the forehead. Make sure the application is evenly distributed on the face and neck, and watch the skin very closely. If there is no frosting, a third layer may be applied. A third layer should only be applied if a deeper exfoliation is needed. Leave this on for 5 minutes. Rinse with cool water; several rinses may be required.

Step 7: Finish with a nourishing formula containing thermus thermophillus, which offers mitochondrial support.

Step 8: After the treatment, advise the client to avoid applying anything to the skin for 24 hours. In the days following, natural anti-inflammatory formulas may be applied, followed by epidermal growth factors and daily sun protection.

Antioxidant-rich Foods to Support Aging Skin

  • Vitamin A—carrots, kale, spinach, pumpkin, liver and cantaloupe
  • Vitamin C—camu camu, broccoli, brussels sprouts, guava and citrus
  • Vitamin E—olive oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, oats, tomatoes and carrots
  • Bioflavonoids—citrus, berries, onions, tea, red wine, dark chocolate and sea buckthorn
  • Polyphenols—berries, tea, dark chocolate, walnuts, peanuts and pomegranates

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