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Healthy Aging Through the Ages

Rhonda Allison November 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
professional skin care clients of all ages

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As always, Skin Inc. magazine recommends that skin care professionals obtain the proper training before offering any new treatments in their skin care facility.

Professionals encounter a number of skin challenges, but there’s perhaps none more pervasive than aging. Nobody can escape the passage of time and its effects on the skin ... at any age.

You likely have clients at both ends of the spectrum—young women in their 20s with significant signs of aging and mature clients in their 60s with minimal damage—and everything in between. Thankfully, advancements in skin care allow you to build preventive and corrective regimens that help clients achieve their youthful skin goals at every stage of their lives.

How the skin ages

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Treatment How-to: Express Facial

Cost: $75–105

Duration: 20–30 minutes

Contraindications: Omit the pepsin and papain enzyme if the client is sensitive or allergic to fruit extracts.

Equipment and supplies needed:

White cloth or gauze

Products needed:

Green tea- and salicylic-based cleanser

Warm water

Pepsin and papain enzyme

Herb-based mask

Arginine and mandelic acid serum

SPF 30 sunscreen

Step 1. For a quick-yet-effective service, start with a green tea- and salicylic-based cleanser to exfoliate cells and reduce surface bacteria. When cleansing, moisten the hands and smooth a small amount of cleanser onto the skin, covering the entire face, neck and décolleté. Massage for one to two minutes.

Step 2. Using warm water and a white cloth or gauze, rinse away the cleanser with light pressure.

Step 3. Rinse the cloth and wipe the skin again, checking the cloth to ensure there is no residual dirt or makeup left behind. It is your role as a skin care professional to set a good example for teens on the proper cleansing technique.

Step 4. Apply a pepsin and papain enzyme to soften the cells and comedones, reduce inflammation and digest dead cells.

Step 5. To boost the enzymes’ effect, follow with an herb-based mask, such as rosemary and basil. Leave it on for 10 minutes and remove with tepid water. This also will provide healing properties and give the skin a vibrant appearance. Blot the skin dry .

Step 6. Apply a nourishing serum of arginine and mandelic acid to rejuvenate gently and deliver a potent dose of antioxidants and amino acids. Finish with a generous application of SPF 30 sunscreen.

Assessing the Damage

Skin assessments with each client will reveal a lot about their lifestyles and previous damage to the skin, but there are also a few other classification tools professionals may utilize to determine a client’s level of deterioration and susceptibility to future aging.

The Glogau Classification of Photoaging, otherwise known as the “wrinkle scale,” helps determine the severity of the photodamage primarily visible in the form of discoloration and wrinkles. This tool helps in choosing a proper corrective treatment for individual clients based on the progression of photoaging for each skin type and the symptoms that may develop at various ages.


Type I: No wrinkles—early photoaging

✓ Minimal-to-no discoloration or wrinkling

✓ No keratosis (skin overgrowth)

✓ Minimal or no makeup needed


Type II: Wrinkles in motion—early-to-moderate photoaging

✓ Wrinkling as skin moves

✓ Slight lines near the eyes and mouth

✓ Early brown spots visible

✓ Keratoses palpable but not visible

✓ Usually a need for some makeup


Type III: Wrinkles at rest—advanced photoaging

✓ Visible wrinkles all the time

✓ Noticeable discolorations

✓ Visible keratosis and capillaries (telangiectasias)

✓ Generally a need for heavy foundation


Type IV: Only wrinkles—severe photoaging

✓ Wrinkles throughout with no normal skin

✓ Yellow-gray color to skin

✓ Prior skin malignancies

✓ Makeup not usable because it cakes and cracks

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