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Healthy Aging Through the Ages

By: Rhonda Allison
Posted: October 31, 2012, from the November 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

page 5 of 7

Home care. If providing corrective treatments, send clients home with a gentle milk- and protein-based cleanser. A gentle scrub using jojoba beads will help keep skin exfoliated. For nourishment, encourage an antioxidant or vitamin complex containing grape seed extract. Finish with a moisturizer containing amino acids and peptides, and an SPF. For those experiencing some discoloration, integrate a brightening formula using natural daisy flower extract, as well. The eyes can be quite revealing when it comes to aging. This area requires a gentle touch, but too frequently, clients rub very aggressively when cleansing and don’t use a cleanser specific to the eye region. Educate your clients that this can dry the eye tissue, and cause it to become more frail and vulnerable to wrinkles.

40s

As clients progress through their 40s, collagen and elastin fibers continue to decline, skin retains less moisture and discoloration may become more apparent. Acne may once again become a challenge, as these women experience >hormonal changes.

There is no one-size-fits-all age-reversal treatment so, as the skin ages, skin assessments and customized care become extremely important. Some clients may require a treatment plan focused on brightening the skin, while others need a clarifying or hydrating approach.

In the treatment room. For clients needing to brighten and lighten, kojic, L-lactic and azelaic acids work well, along with AHAs and retinols. For acne conditions, a variety of enzymes, glycolic and L-lactic acid, along with low-strength trichloroacetic acids (TCA), azelaic and modified Jessner’s formulas exfoliate the skin and reduce surface bacteria. For aging, a red wine vinegar/acetic acid formula followed by vitamins, antioxidants, amino acids and an LED application will tone, firm and leave skin glowing for months. Laser and microdermabrasion treatments also may be introduced.

Home care. Depending on the condition, a good cleanser might include a glycolic-based gel for acne, one with daisy flower extract for pigmentation issues, and a pumpkin-infused cleanser, which is high in vitamin A and beta carotene, for photoaged skin. For women in their 40s, be sure to integrate growth factors, retinol, plenty of antioxidants, such as superoxide dismutase, resveratrol and grape seed extracts, and specialized eye care with peptides and hydrating factors.

50s