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Skin Synergy: The New Equipment Equation

By: Whitney Johnson
Posted: October 31, 2013, from the November 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
Skin Synergy: The New Equipment Equation

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Following are some methods and tips that combine ingredients and modality technologies to take your treatments to that next level.

1. Microdermabrasion and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). In this combination, skin can be exfoliated with microdermabrasion prior to an application of key AHAs, resulting in increased penetration.

  • Low-tech method. Don’t have a microdermabrasion machine? Never fear! Double up on exfoliation or use a brush with a power cleanse setting that can also remove dulling buildup and debris, and aid in product penetration. This is excellent to use before a high-frequency or a light-emitting diode (LED) treatment. Also, consider pairing your brush with a gel-based cleanser and a granular scrub, or use a micro-exfoliant to gently exfoliate the skin before the next exfoliation step.
  • Home-care recommendation: Send your clients home with a cleanser and brush they can incorporate into their routine. If they already have a brush, clue them in to products that will work best with it.

2. Ultrasonic blade and cleanser. Cleanse the skin and incorporate an ultrasonic blade for deep cleansing of oily skin or to enhance exfoliation ingredients.

  • Low-tech method. Don’t have an ultrasonic blade? You can still achieve a deep-cleanse effect by performing a double-cleanse routine. Perform the first cleanse with a product that will remove surface oils, debris and makeup, then create a target-specific cleanse for the second one, such as an antibacterial cleanser for acne, or a creamy exfoliating cleanser for treating pigmentation or aging concerns.
  • Home-care recommendation: Teach your clients the benefit of a double-cleanse. Instruct them to incorporate the double-cleanse routine with products they have at home, or supplement their current products with recommendations from your retail area.

3. Galvanic and LED. For stubborn breakouts, combine galvanic desincrustation with a blue-light LED this treatment to help eliminate Propionibacterium acnes.

  • Low-tech method. Don’t have blue-light LED handy? Use high-frequency combined with a spot treatment using ingredients, such as benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C. Not only will these ingredients help dry out breakouts, but vitamin C will also help minimize post-inflammatory pigmentation that can be left behind. Utilize ingredients that are excellent for drying acne lesions, including salicylic acid, niacinamide or benzoyl peroxide.
  • Home-care recommendation. Suggest your clients purchase an at-home spot treatment and instruct them to continue treating breakouts between appointments.

4. Iontophoresis. Increase the penetration of active ingredients, fight wrinkles in aging skin, and soothe rosacea or reactive skin with iontophoresis.

  • Low-tech method. Not sure if you have galvanic iontophoresis? For wrinkle-fightening, use an ultrasonic blade (end up) to increase product penetration and smoothing. Combine a targeted serum or complex that contains designer peptides—such as oligopeptide-34 for pigmentation, hexapeptide-11 for aging or acetyl tetrapeptide-15 for sensitivity concerns—following application of a cream- or gel-based mask. Not only will iontophoresis help the serum or complex absorb into the skin, but the mask will also help minimize dehydration lines.