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Sunset Season

By: Abby Penning
Posted: July 23, 2008, from the August 2008 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
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This season, makeup moves from leaving skin in the bland background to giving it a showcase look, and the eyes, lips and cheeks follow with color signatures all their own. So prepare to settle into the cool season of autumn with a bevy of enriching shades and tantalizing finishes.

“I think fall is an interesting season this year,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute and author of More Alive with Color (Capitol Books, 2006). “What we’re finding is that there is a new feeling, and it’s a little different than what we generally see in the fall.” Bringing that new feeling into cosmetics, Todd Taubman-Walker, makeup artist and founder of the Bay Area Makeup Academy located near San Francisco, says, “Everything is really clean, crisp, fresh and tailored.”

Alphonse Wiebelt, makeup artist, co-founder and vice president of development for Being TRUE Cosmetics, explains there will be a more simplistic look to makeup that doesn’t necessarily translate to the colors. “Many American designers were working in these somewhat recession-resistant colors—the crimsons, chocolate browns, aubergines and hunter greens,” he says. Eiseman sees the continuing trend of cool tones. “You’re still seeing the whole blue and purple story. It’s not all your typical fall russet tones.”

The bold colors come from the tradition of boosting hues with a richness when things turn colder. “When the season changes and things go more gray, the makeup gets a bit stronger,” notes Philip Luque, a makeup artist with Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics. “There’s also a sense of warmth, opulence and luxury that comes with fall.” And to match the luxuriousness of the colors, there will also be some very luxe finishes. “Eye shadows will feature brown, apricot and green, lip colors in red and rose, then pencils in brown, rose and natural, and the finishes will be extreme—either feather or metallized effects,”says Christian Mas, marketing director of Sothys.

Makeup artist and beauty expert Candace Corey sums up the look as, “Being able to still look nice and healthy, but also adding more richness and sexiness.”

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