Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), the active ingredient business of Cognis Care Chemicals, has introduced a mild, preservative-free, plant-based active that prolongs and enhances the effect of hair removal treatments. Pilisoft LS 9760 (INCI: Water (aqua) (and)pentylene glycol (and) Gymnema sylvestre leaf extract) is reported to leave sensitive skin feeling smoother for longer after shaving and depilation.
The active is an extract of G. sylvestre leaves and contains gymnemic acids that help to inhibit hair follicle activity. These acids are said to reduce hair vitality and slow hair growth. The rate at which hair grows and the thickness of the hair are dependent on the activity of the hair follicles. According to the company, the botanical extract inhibits this activity, meaning that the hair not only develops more slowly, but is also thinner, making it easier to shave off or otherwise remove.
A series of efficacy tests have demonstrated the active's ability to reduce keratinocyte proliferation and impair the mitotic activity of hair follicles. The main active constituent is the gymnemic acids, and in developing the product, LS set out to take advantage of this proven ability to inhibit phosphodiesterase activity. By so doing, it brought about an increase of the level of cAMP (cyclic Adenosin Mono Phosphate), resulting in the inhibition of hair growth. This effect reportedly has been verified by a clinical study, successfully prolonging and enhancing the effects of hair removal treatments.