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Pick the Perfect Professional At-home Masks

January 2014 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
Pick the Perfect Professional At-home Masks

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One of the most important aspects of a professional facial treatment is the application of a facial mask. When chosen and applied correctly, utilizing a facial mask during your treatments can help provide moisture to the skin, draw out impurities, exfoliate, brighten, tighten and tone.

Dry and dehydrated

On dry and dehydrated skin, consider using a cream mask to help calm and restore a glowing complexion. Moisture-boosting hyaluronic acid and shea butter along with vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), mango seed butter, water lily extracts, sunflower seed oil and coconut oil make an ideal skin-smoothing treatment. Cream masks are also excellent for sensitive skin types. A mask allows you to provide sensitive skin with delicate exfoliation. Look for a cream mask that helps gently remove dead skin cells without irritation.

Oily

For oily skin types, utilize a clay mask. Clay masks help to deeply cleanse pores and purify the skin. Kaolin clay helps to reduce oiliness and minimize larger pores. It also helps to absorb excess sebum and impurities, leaving skin clean and refreshed. To really help draw out impurities, look for a mask with ammonium bituminosulfonate. A mineral-derived mixture, this ingredient is mined from the Tyrolean Alps in Central Europe. It is known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Clay masks help cleanse the skin from bacteria, leaving it clean, decongested and healthy.

Desincrustation

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Treatment How-to: Lift-off Seaweed Mask

This mask will help improve the resiliency, firmness, contours and tone of your clients’ skin.

Cost: $75
Duration: 30 minutes
Contraindications: Any client who has an allergy to the ingredients in the treatment.

Equipment and supplies needed:
Medical-grade bowls
Spatula
Water
Cotton

Products needed:
Freeze-dried seaweed packet
Seaweed gel packet

Step 1: To apply a lift-off mask, first combine a freeze-dried seaweed packet with a seaweed gel packet in a medical grade-bowl with your spatula. It is important to use gel instead of water because the purity and pH of water varies.

Step 2: Mix the ingredients together with the spatula. Whip the components to add a lot of air, creating a soufflé-like texture. Always start with a clean spatula.

Step 3: Begin applying the mask by imagining you are icing a cake; use smooth movements to apply and spread. Start on the larger parts of the face first—forehead, chin and cheeks—then, move to the nose.

Step 4: The nose can be a little tricky at first, but here’s a trick: Using your spatula, scoop some of your mask, then wipe your spatula clean on the inside of your bowl. Then, re-scoop the mask left on the inside of your bowl. This will help create an almost ball-like shape to the mask for easy application. Using your spatula, gently place the “ball” of mask onto the bridge of your client’s nose. Once it is applied, gently slide the mask down each side of the nose.

Step 5: It is also important to cover the area above the lips. Using a small spatula of mask, simply guide it across the top lip from cheek to cheek.

Step 6: Apply the mask to the throat using downward strokes, and with upward and outward movements on the face. Once the mask is fully applied, allow it to set for 7–10 minutes. This is the perfect time to either upgrade your client by applying a mask to the hands, or by simply providing them with a relaxing hand and foot massage.

Step 7: Once the mask is set, it is time for removal. To peel off the mask, dip your fingers into a bowl of water, splash the water off and place your fingers under the edge of the mask to gently release it. Remove the mask from the bottom and roll it upward. Take one piece of cotton, cut it in half and remove the residue.

Step 8: After the treatment, take the client to your retail area and recommend the proper at-home mask care they will need and book their next appointment before they leave.

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