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Healthy Aging Through the Ages

By: Rhonda Allison
Posted: October 31, 2012, from the November 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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In the treatment room. Help clients replenish, hydrate and strengthen the skin. Use milk-based masks rather than clay and gentle AHAs, such as phytic and pyruvic acid, enzymes and L-lactic acids for mild exfoliation, followed by nourishing and skin-building antioxidants, vitamins, essential oils and growth factors.

Home care. Provide clients with a home-care system focused on cleansing, gentle correction, nourishing, moisturizing and protection. This will vary from client to client, but keep in mind, dry skin issues can begin early, so age and severity of dryness will factor into developing a customized system. A home care system should cleanse with a milk- or gel-based cleanser; correct using a gentle retinol formula blended with organic stem cells from apples and plants; nourish using vitamin A, peptides and antioxidants; moisturize using hyaluronic acid and aloe; and protect using a natural sunscreen with SPF 30.


Thirty may be the new 20, but visual signs of aging begin during this time. Fine lines and wrinkles may develop and some discoloration may occur as skin thins slightly, and collagen and elastin production begin to decline.

Clients with fair skin may experience some hyperpigmentation and brown spots. Light skin also tends to reveal signs of aging more rapidly than olive- and darker-toned skin, which generally have more oil and a greater level of protection from external assaults because their melanin is closer to the surface.

In the treatment room. For clients in their 30s, consider introducing corrective treatments aimed at restoring the skin to its optimum health and activating its own regenerative mechanisms. This might include a digestive enzyme followed by a salicylic acid formula. Fruit-based enzymes, such as pumpkin, cherry, papaya (papain) and pineapple (bromelain), will work to exfoliate and digest dead cells while boosting the skin with a potent dose of antioxidants and polyphenols. Finish with a nourishing application of omega-6 essential fatty acids, growth factors, and a cooling, replenishing milk and antioxidant mask.