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Get Serious With Clients About Smoking

Barbara Salomone December 2011 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
smoker client

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It’s always easy to talk to clients about the extrinsic, premature signs of aging that appear due to sun exposure or poor diet because they continually hear the facts and statistics about UV rays and skin damage, as well as the connection between a healthy diet and healthy skin.

Messages such as these have been a part of the mainstream media— in consumer women’s magazines and on television—for decades, and for good reason. But the topic of smoking and the skin has never been as widely discussed. Of course, it is commonly known that smoking is bad for your health, but its specific effects on the skin are rarely discussed in detail.

In research released by the U.S Department of Health and Human Services in 2010, 21% of adults 18 and older smoke cigarettes. As skin care professionals, it’s your responsibility to change the way you talk about smoking and the skin. It may be easy to say “Don’t smoke because it’s bad for your skin,” but clients already know that basic truth. It’s time to start a real dialogue about just how damaging smoking is to the skin, and how significant and premature the effects can be.

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Treatment How-to: Smoker’s Skin Facial

Cost: $85

Duration: 60 minutes

Contraindications: Be aware of your client’s sensitivity levels and choose products accordingly in order to avoid sensitivity issues.

Equipment and supplies needed:

Treatment brush




Moistened eye pads

Moistened steamed towel

Products needed:

Cleanser based on client’s skin type

Exfoliating scrub

Toner or tonic

Blended enzyme exfoliation powder treatment

Softening gel

Soothing treatment powder

Post-extraction tonic

Stabilized hydrogen peroxide and vitamin E treatment

Detoxifying vitamin C mask

Oxygenating serum with hyaluronic acid

Moisturizer or sunscreen

Step 1: Apply a cleanser to the face and neck with a treatment brush, then perform a second cleansing under steam using a cleansing massage. Do not remove cleanser.

Step 2: Apply an exfoliating scrub to your hands and rub them together to distribute. Gently press over the client’s chin, center of cheeks and center of forehead, avoiding the eye area, then gently massage for one minute. Continue steaming.

Step 3: Remove all product with gauze and water, then blot skin with toner or tonic.

Step 4: Apply a blended enzyme exfoliation powder treatment to entire face and neck with a treatment brush, avoiding the eye and lip area.

Step 5: Apply moistened eye pads and allow the product to exfoliate the skin under steam for five minutes. Remove eye pads, then remove exfoliant with gauze and water.

Step 6: Blend a softening gel with a soothing treatment powder, and apply to the face and neck with a treatment brush.

Step 7: Apply moistened eye pads and leave on for five minutes. Remove the gel and powder mixture using gauze and water.

Step 8: Perform comedone removal if necessary, and blot extracted areas with a post-extraction tonic.

Step 9: Apply an oxygenating treatment of stabilized hydrogen peroxide and vitamin E to target the smoker’s dull, aging skin and lines. Apply to face and neck with a treatment brush. Do not remove product.

Step 10: Follow with a detoxifying vitamin C mask to neutralize free radicals and even out the skin’s rough texture. Apply to face and neck over the oxygenating treatment with a treatment brush.

Step 11: Apply moistened eye pads and leave on for 10 minutes, then remove.

Step 12: Remove the mask with a moistened steamed towel. Blot with a toner or tonic.

Step 13: Apply an oxygenating serum with hyaluronic acid, and follow with a sunscreen if day time or a moisturizer.

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