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Makeup Grows Up

By: Abby Penning
Posted: April 28, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

page 4 of 7

Whatever hue the client prefers for the cheeks, whether it is a dusty rose, bold bronze or something in between, these tricks leave the skin looking flawless, striking the perfect cosmetic tone for a woman of any age.

Easy on the eyes

The NPD Group’s report states that one potential reason many women shift away from wearing eye makeup as they get older is their concern about drawing attention to the fine lines and wrinkles that tend to develop in this delicate area. However, inventive makeup artists are creating ways to give the eyes a chance to shine while minimizing signs of aging.

Noting the obstacles brought about by more mature eyes, Kennedy says, “We call them experienced eyes at spa-dee-dah!, and we’ve started putting the eye makeup on a little differently to adjust to the challenges that come as skin ages. Instead of horizontal lines of three colors across the lid, we go vertical. We start on the outer edge of the eye with upward strokes of darker color and move toward the nose with lighter shades, always using upward and outward motions. There can also be touches of highlight at the very outer edge of the eye, right toward the nose and in the arch of the eyebrow.” A simple application change-up can leave unexpectedly exciting results, and opens up a variety of color options.

“I like soft browns, pinks and peaches in matte finishes for eyes because they give warmth,” says Murphy. “And a good rule of thumb is to stay away from shadows that are frosty or have big metallic chunks for a more mature eye, especially if the eyes are crepey, because you don’t want to accentuate that. But it doesn’t mean you can’t use something iridescent or luminous; you can add a subtle sparkle to the eye with a nice sage green with gold tones.”

Kennedy also adds another way of giving a touch of glimmer to the eye. “Take a little gold dust and apply it to the apple of the eyelid, where the pupil would be—just a gold dab,” she says. “It’s not too much glitz on more mature skin, and it’s a really neat way to make eyes sparkle.”