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Makeup Grows Up

By: Abby Penning
Posted: April 28, 2009, from the May 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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“You want makeup that’s not too heavy; it should be weightless and consistent,” says Carmen Wolcott, makeup artist and co-founder of Studio G Total Skin Wellness in Telluride, Colorado. “How it sits on the skin is so important, especially on someone who has a few more fine lines and wrinkles. Cosmetics should improve the condition of the skin and accentuate it.”

After smoothing out the complexion, Wolcott moves to blush to perk things up. “A touch of color on the cheeks is great for women of all ages,” she says, and according to Murphy, “With blush, you want a more sophisticated application on the middle of the cheekbone. As the face ages, cheekbones tend to be more prominent anyway, so you want to avoid deep contouring underneath, and applying it right onto the apples can look too young. If you start close to the bottom of the cheekbone and sweep the color up toward the temples, it looks much more sophisticated.”

Explaining how she brings out some of the face’s greatest assets, Christalee notes, “One product I really love is loose foundation in a coffee color for doing shading. It’s extremely natural and beautiful, and I use it below the cheekbones and in the creases of the eye to add depth to the skin. You’re highlighting the things you want to pull forward, and shading the things you want to deepen. We call it chiseling the face, and it brings out the bone structure,” she says.

Then, to bring everything together, Christalee says, “I do the blush first, then I apply the concealer under the eyes, pulling it down into the cheekbones for the ultimate blended finish. Bringing that concealer downward gives an automatic highlight on the cheekbones.”

Wolcott adds, “As women mature and their skin changes, a little camouflage is very helpful. Women can see an immediate difference by bending a little concealer around the entire eye area, and it’s easy using a foundation brush for this. It brightens and opens up the eyes in two seconds, and you have a neutral, clean palette, allowing you to then add color to the eyes, lips and cheeks.”