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Approachable Beauty

By: Abby Penning
Posted: February 26, 2009, from the March 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
beautiful model with makeup

Going green with washes of color on the lids and lining below the lashes gives the eyes a standout quality, while pale pink glossed lips and cheekbone-defining blush keep things light and springtime fresh. Makeup by jane iredale.

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Other features that are keeping particularly low profiles for the spring are the cheeks. “I really see the spring inspiration in the skin being so clean and pretty and soft. It’s very pale skin, not overly bronzed at all. There is still that touch of bronzer, but its very light,” Luque explains.

Wiebelt suggests that color on the cheeks is best used to help pull all the face’s features together. “Warm tones complement those with warm golden to bronze undertones in their skin, and cool tones generally complement those with cool undertones in their skin—a pinkish hue. However, any undertone can wear almost any range as long as it coordinates,” he says. “Keep it easy. If you want to wear fuchsia lipstick—a cool tone—then keep the blush and shadow in the same family, or vice versa. Mixing warm and cool tones can be done and looks beautiful on all skins, but it has to be balanced and can be tricky if the hues do not have the same intensity of pigment.”

Of course, those looking to be a little more adventurous on the cheeks can create a pretty flush with the right colors. “The blush this season can add a little bit more color to the face, with pinky pops on the apples of the cheeks and then blending it into the cheekbone,” notes Corey. “That brighter blush signifies a new season and gives an element of freshness for spring.” An easy hand should be used to keep things balanced on the cheeks, however.

Keeping the bronzer to a simple sweep or two is also a good bet. Framing the face with a cool-toned bronzer adds a pulled-together touch, Wiebelt says, and Luque notes, “To use bronzer, mix it with a pinky blush on the apples of the cheeks. It’ll give a healthy, vibrant glow. I could never throw away my bronzer, but I’m just using it very lightly to contour the cheeks. A soft, pinky-bronzy cheek is fresh and clean and shouldn’t be overly done. The cheeks are just very minimal.”

The golden age of skin

No matter how many great colors you dust across the face, nothing looks quite right unless the skin is serving as a pristine background. “There is more focus on the skin every season,” Luque says. “I tell women, ‘If you are going to make an investment, make it in good skin care. The younger your skin looks, the younger you look, and caking on a bunch of foundation and makeup actually makes you look older.’ This is definitely a big shift that’s been a long time coming, and it just keeps coming and coming—you need that healthy, healthy skin.”