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Approachable Beauty

By: Abby Penning
Posted: February 26, 2009, from the March 2009 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
beautiful model with makeup

Going green with washes of color on the lids and lining below the lashes gives the eyes a standout quality, while pale pink glossed lips and cheekbone-defining blush keep things light and springtime fresh. Makeup by jane iredale.

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Along with the smoky eye, a certain twinkle has also crossed over into spring. “We’re still seeing shimmer and touches of sparkle in products—that’s not going anywhere,” says Mendelson. “We’re also seeing a lighter texture version of matte. It’s not a lot more matte, but kind of a satin matte that’s soft and not flat.” Those looking to break into more bold hues with a glittery bent this spring can turn to an old standard: gold.

Eiseman expects to see gilded eyelids for the spring, with just a light gold or silver dusting for the daytime and a little heavier hand playing a part for nights. “We started in the fall with gilding everything, and that’s going to continue into spring, with maybe just a little softer version,” she says. “Match with that yellow, which is such a big color in fashion right now, because gold and yellow are natural companions. The color of the year for 2009 is mimosa yellow, which is a softer, kind of chamois type of yellow. Then there is also super lemon, which is incredibly vibrant and offers another variation on the yellow theme. One is more subtle, while the other is more of a bold, summery shade.”

Eiseman continues, “Lavender is continuing the purple trend that was big in the fall, but it transitions to spring with a softer, more summery hue. It’s lightened, and almost has a mystical aspect. And there’s also palace blue, which is like a royal blue, but not quite. It’s very vibrant and not dark like a navy, so it ends up very classic and with a great bit of sparkle.”

Mendelson says, “Strong washes of color like butter cream yellow, plum or aqua blue can be done around the eyes, and then you can contour it with neutrals. The neutrals are strongly toned—violet, brown, earthy greens—and they complement the bright colors.” The blending trend is also something Eiseman has caught on to. “The neutral colors in fashion are being used as a background to bounce the other, bolder colors off of,” she explains. “One of the colors, a rose dust, is really a beige with rose undertones, so it’s not just taupe-y gray, but has a really interesting note underneath. There’s also a slate gray, which has very decidedly blue undertones. With cosmetics, you can really build around that undertone, bringing the colors across the face, beautifully coordinating a look and keeping it from being boring.”

Dazzling eyes can easily become boring without a great frame, however, and lashes are finally getting a lot of attention after several seasons spent on the fringe. “Lashes are big for the spring—you need a really good mascara,” advises Luque. “They need to be separated and pretty. Precise lashes that aren’t spidery or goopy can frame the eye beautifully, drawing a lot of attention.” Mendelson adds, “Really black, beautiful lashes can detract attention from under-eye shadows.”