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Eye on Brows

By: Marvin Westmore
Posted: June 25, 2008, from the January 2006 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

page 3 of 8

3. Ending point. Where should the brows end? Should the brows end just after the arches, or should they end exactly over the eyes, straight out? Should they come down and end by the outside corner of the eyes? If the brows end just after the arches, they will be too short and give the eye area an unfinished look. When brows extend straight out, the eye area appears expressionless, artificial and a bit sinister. If the brows end downward and too close to the eyes, it will close down the eye area, minimizing the area available for glamorizing and also creating a sad look.

To determine where the brows should end, draw a line from the outside corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye, extending past the brow area. This gives you a finishing point for the brow, which will be in direct proportion, balance and relationship to the nose, eyes and brows.

4. High and low. How high or how low should the brows be? Should the brows be high on the forehead? If they are too high, it will create a look of surprise or astonishment and give the illusion that the eyes are smaller. If the brows are too low, it will create the appearance of contempt or mistrust and also cause the eyes to appear larger in proportion to the face.

Determining the proper height of the eyebrow is based on line, form and balance in the relationship to the facial anatomy.

5. Thickness and thinness. How thick or how thin should the brows be? If the brows are too thick or heavy for the face, it will appear slightly masculine. A thick brow will limit the expression of nonverbal communication and close down the eye area, minimizing the space available for eye makeup, contouring and decoration. If the brows are too thin, they will look hard, cold, artificial and faddish. Thin brows make the face appear fatter or larger proportionally, while diminishing the facial expression of nonverbal communication.