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Eye Know-How

By: Noreen Young
Posted: June 23, 2008, from the May 2006 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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Step 6: Show your client how to use an eyelash curler to define the lashes and eyes.

Step 7: Applying mascara to accent and tint the lashes is the next step. Sometimes, clients will avoid mascara due to laziness, skin sensitivity and the messiness of the product. They may comment that they don’t like the “raccoon look.” In these instances, opt for clear mascara that also can be used for grooming the eyebrows and keeping them in place.

Colored mascaras are popular again, but in more muted and eye-opening hues, including navy, teal and eggplant, which tend to enliven a tired appearance. The darker the mascara, the smaller or more deep-set the eyes will look. Don’t use black if your client is a redhead or a very fair blonde. Always coat the tops and bottoms of the lash line, as well as underneath it, or your client’s eyes will look dark on the bottom and light blonde on top, or vice versa.

Mascara comes in all shapes and forms. If your client prefers a dark shade on the rims of the eyes, use a white eye pencil—or you simply can apply it in the corners of the eyes. If she likes a celebrity or “Cleopatra” kohl look, use a dark black color on the inside rims of the eyes.

Step 8: Define eyebrows with a brow tint in a universal color. This works wonderfully as a filler and provides a more natural look.