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Suppliers Speak Out--Color Cosmetic Trends

Posted: May 19, 2008, from the June 2007 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

page 6 of 9

“Trend looks can work for all skin tones when the color intensities are available. Some shifts in depth of color are needed to provide the look on different complexions. This would be the only alternation.”
Crystal Gryniuk
national marketing and public relations director

“When creating a makeup collection, many factors must be considered. Questions such as: Who is our audience? Who are our clients? What are their ages? All of these considerations and many more come into play. For a makeup collection to be successful, it must have enough shades for every skin color and complement every complexion regardless of age. When selecting shades, one must consider: Who is the core client? If your core client is African American, then, of course, your foundations must correspond with the many shades that are associated with this ethnicity. Respectively, if your client is Nordic, you will have many shades of light.”
Shiri Sarfati
vice president of international
and domestic marketing and sales

“Yes, ethnic skin is quite varied, so it is important to have a wide range of color options for foundation products as well as color cosmetics. It’s important not to pigeonhole ethnic skin either. We don’t have an ‘ethnic collection;’ instead, we’ve made our entire line to be appealing to all skin tones from African American to Mediterranean, Indian, Latina and Asian. Many designers now feature models with a more global appeal, both in their runway collections and in their print advertising. Makeup artists will often use the same color palette, but in different color depths and intensity depending on the model. Shades are generally deeper and richer for women of color and lighter and softer for fair-skinned Asian, Russian or European models.”
Theresa Robison, vice president of business development
Jane Iredale—The Skin Care Makeup

“Yes. If you have ever looked at the same shade of say, sky blue against a snow white background and then against a midnight sky background, you know that the blue looks very different against these backgrounds. The same is true with individual’s skin tones, which vary in lightness and darkness and also in undertones, which can be yellow to pink. In order to get similar effects, you need to adjust for these variations.
       “Some products might need only slight, but crucial, adjustments to accommodate for these variations. A soft pink lipstick with a blue undertone may look romantic on someone with blue undertones in their skin but very dramatic and bold on someone with yellow undertones in their skin. The same would apply for creating a nude look. Clearly, you would need different products to create the same look on very light or dark skin and would need to accommodate skin undertones as well.”
Mari Roseman
marketing director, Colorlab Cosmetics

“Trend is usually not determined by ethnic group; however, the basic collection in most lines has the various assortments of shades to meet individual skin tone needs.”
Paula Derrick, vice president of sales
BABOR Cosmetics North America