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The Over-50 Makeover
By: Teresa Paquin
Posted: October 31, 2012, from the November 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
After; Photo courtesy of Makeup Artist: Teresa Paquin; Photographer: Maria Nicolet, Nicolet Photography; Hairstylist: Robyn Watson, Salon 25; and Model: Lin Nicolet.
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Step 3: Apply a concealer to the under-eye area using a small, oval brush, making sure the texture isn’t too heavy, but is thick enough to even out under-eye discoloration. Blend the concealer well with a latex-free cosmetic sponge. Always use latex-free sponges in case clients have allergies.
Step 4: Select a foundation according to skin type and tone. With Lin, a liquid mineral makeup was applied using a foundation brush because she has normal-to-dry skin. Start in the center of the face where people have the most discoloration; apply the foundation, working your way toward the client’s hair line and blending out.
Step 5: Once the skin tone is evened, use a kabuki brush and apply a pressed mineral powder to set everything. Do this before applying any color.
Step 6: Many women over 50 do not have full eyebrows and, in some cases, may have no hair growth. Lin does not have any eyebrow hair from the mid-arch outward. The following eyebrow technique can be easily used to re-create a client’s eyebrows, and is very helpful to teach when doing oncology makeup. Simply determine what eyebrow pencil color to start with, making sure you never go too dark. Hold the eyebrow pencil straight up along the side of the nose and where the eyebrow naturally would begin, place a dot there. Then place dots where the natural arch and end of the eyebrow would be. Stand back, and make sure you have at least three dots as a reference point. Using short, feathering strokes with the pencil, re-create the eyebrow following the dots. To soften the eyebrow pencil, blend up and out with a mascara spooly. Follow this with some eyebrow powder, using a small angled brush, and set with an eyebrow wax to hold and give some sheen to the eyebrows.
Step7: Next, apply a shimmering copper eye shadow on the eyelid with a sable eye shadow brush above the crease of the eyes. Then apply a creamy luminizer under the arch of the brow, using a bone-colored eye shadow over it to soften the look. With the same color of luminizer, use a small synthetic detail brush to apply it in the very inner corner of the eyes around the tear ducts. Add a touch of luminizer on the bottom-center of the eyelids. Basically, you are highlighting under the arch of the brow, the inner corner of the eye and the very center of the bottom eyelid. Select a dark brown eye shadow to apply to the very outer corner of the eyes, blending it up and in. Be careful not to extend it out too far or down, which can be aging on older clients.