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A Bright Outlook: Spring 2012 Color Preview

By: Cathy Christensen
Posted: February 28, 2012, from the March 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
With dark hair and dark eyes, a combination of Cockatoo and Margarita can be stunning this spring.

With dark hair and dark eyes, a combination of Cockatoo and Margarita can be stunning this spring.

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No matter which type of color palette your client chooses, liner, lashes and brows play an important role this season. “I like to use liquid liner pens with felt tips. Especially if the client is wearing a bold shadow or lip color, like a hot pink or an intense blue, I like to do a thick line of jet black liner. You can choose an intense color of shadow, a little color under the brow and a nice dramatic line,” suggests Paquin, who also encourages the use of some of spring’s colors within the eye liner over a neutral eye. See an example of this look in Spring 2012 Makeover.

Another look that has lingered from Fall/Winter 2011 is the winged eye, although to spice it up for the new season, Bennett suggests using a liquid metallic liner instead of black. “Liner should be sharp and neat, especially with an extended wing, if the eyelid is young enough to support it. For more mature women, sometimes the winged-out look sounds great in theory, but in practice, it’s best to extend it a tad beyond the edge of the lid with a slight upsweep,” explains Katz.

Lots of thick, black lashes are still in vogue for this season, and eyebrows remain a strong feature in this season’s trends. “Big brows are coming back. Keep in mind that you want to use the same color as your client’s hair or a shade lighter,” advises McCarthy. Paquin agrees, saying, “Brows are thick and well-shaped. I like to do the brows with a small angled brush. First, I like to feather it upward and outward with a pencil, and then go over it with a powder and top it with brow wax. There’s a lot of attention on a full brow that is naturally shaped this spring.”

Campbell reminds that the best recommendations for your clients’ eyes should be based on the basics, such as their shape and their color. “You have to look at a client’s eye shape, and place colors according to this shape,” she emphasizes. “You want someone to say your eyes look amazing, not your eye shadow. You need to look at the eye color. The best way to pop a blue eye is by using warmer tones, oranges and bronzes, and if you have a green eye, you would want to go toward red-browns and purples. You have to take eye shape and color
into consideration.”


Although reds will always be in, the traditional red that graced the porcelain faces of Fall/Winter 2011 is transitioning into the new season. “The beautiful tangerine color can help transition the red lips of last season by taking red and infusing it with the tangerine giving it a warmer edge. It’s a gorgeous bridge,” exclaims Bennett, who is also inspired by the lavender colors of spring. “A lavender lip is stunning, fresh and unexpected on the lips. Mix it with a natural lip color and it’s not jarring. You can do it in an opaque, in a sheer or in a lipstick with a clear gloss over the top,” he says.