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A Bright Outlook: Spring 2012 Color Preview

Cathy Christensen March 2012 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
With dark hair and dark eyes, a combination of Cockatoo and Margarita can be stunning this spring.

With dark hair and dark eyes, a combination of Cockatoo and Margarita can be stunning this spring.

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Spring always brings with it a feeling of newness; of hope and light and new possibilities. After shaking off the stupor of a long winter’s rest, people tend to look with a renewed vigor at their world, and many seek to express this feeling through makeup. This spring, clients won’t be hard-pressed to find the exact color to fit their moods, whether it be romantic nudes and pastels or bright, vibrant shades that say “Look out world; I’m out of hibernation!”

Makeup is an easy and relatively inexpensive way for clients to liven up their wardrobes and put a new face to their world. Although many of the hot colors for spring may seem out of reach for the everyday woman, it is your job to work as an advisor to help your clients figure out how to make the colors work for them—that’s one thing they won’t find at the department store makeup counter. “Remember that runway looks are meant to be theatrical trendsetters, and that women who want to look current may not necessarily want to, or be able to, rock what a runway model can carry off. Employ realistic options while creating a feel for what these looks are now,” advises Emily Katz, celebrity makeup artist.

The color palette for Spring 2012, from color authority Pantone, includes a plethora of fun, bright colors, as well as those that are more subdued for a more neutral look. “The colors that will be hot are tangerine and neons and other bright colors, and some of the nudes and softer colors,” says Teresa Paquin, makeup artist and owner of Anika Skincare & Makeup Studio in Hudson, New Hampshire. “It will be fun for clients. Spring is a time of renewal, and these colors can be made wearable for every client of every age.” Corrective makeup artist Donna Mee of Donna Mee, Inc. has identified which of these colors works best with specific skin and eye colors. See Client Color Recommendations to guide your clients to the correct color choices for their specific needs.

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Spring Color 2012 1

A neutral eye with a semiglossed tangerine lip exemplifies the vivid, uplifting mood of Spring 2012.

Spring Color 2012 2

Spring Color 2012 3

Spring Color 2012 4

Client Color Recommendations

The color information was compiled from Pantone’s Spring 2012 Fashion Color Report, which can be found at www.pantone.com. Pantone is a global company that standardizes the language of color. The Pantone Color Institute studies the psychological and physiological aspect of color and forecasts color needs. The names included are assigned by Pantone.

Top corrective makeup artist, Donna Mee, is known for mastering the use of color and shares her recommendations for the best way to utilize this spring’s color forecast on your clients.

Bellflower. “Bellflower is a beautiful shade to use under the lower lash line on a green or brown eye. Eye liner pencils or shimmer shadows in this color can be applied with a smudger brush for a subtle enhancement of the eye color.”

Cabaret. “This hot pink is great for lips and cheeks, and is best on yellow and olive skin tones, especially for those clients who have very dark hair. This color is a bit too vibrant for eye makeup for most, with the exception of those with dark brown eyes that don’t mind a little drama.”

Cockatoo. “At first sight, most clients would be reluctant to try and wear this color. But it is beautiful on most blue-green eyes when worn on the lower portion of the eyelid or under the lower lash line. It can also be worn as an accent color by clients with brown eyes when mixed with another neutral color, such as an ash brown, charcoal or chocolate.”

Driftwood and Starfish. “These colors may appear dull and boring, but they are both amazing colors. They are gorgeous on almost every eye color, especially the shimmer versions. A lot of women can’t figure out what colors to use to enhance the eyebrows, but these are perfect. Matte shades are great to be used for filling in blonde eyebrows, regardless of whether it is a powder shadow or brow pencil. Starfish is best for most blondes and Driftwood works on dishwater blondes. If neither seem right, mixing the two together is sure to work.”

Margarita. “This is a gorgeous hue that can be applied just over the iris of a blue-green eye in a shimmer formula shadow, as long as the client does not have a bulbous eye. If this is the case, a matte eye shadow would be better than a shimmer.”

Sodalite Blue. “A brown eye carries off this color best. Use it as eye shadow contour or create a gorgeous smoky eye by using it with a color like Driftwood to give the outer smoky effect. This deep blue is gorgeous used as an eye liner on a blue eye that has a dark outer iris as well as brown eyes. And all light eye shades can be enhanced without using colorful eye shadows or liners by simply applying a deep blue mascara.”

Solar Power. “I actually use this color quite a bit; it looks pretty on green, hazel or blue eyes that have either yellow or gold flecks when it is dusted right over the center of the iris. Because the color is harmonious with the eye color, as the client blinks, it magnifies the yellowish-gold tones in the eye. This color is also beautiful when used as a shimmer on dark-complected skin.”

Sweet Lilac. “This is pretty for a lip and cheek color on fair or medium skin tones, especially if the client has green eyes. A lip gloss in this shade can be used alone or over almost any lipstick color to add a highlight effect showcasing the illusion of fullness. A little of this color of eye shadow placed on the lower eyelid will make a green eye look more green.”

Tangerine Tango. “If you put this color on as a sheer gloss, it’s actually very pretty. Try it on clients with cool peach and rosy skin tones. This color is especially gorgeous on clients with blue eyes because it really makes that eye color pop. Most people select eye shadows hoping to enhance their eye color, yet most do not realize that lip and cheek colors can also be utilized to make their eye color stand out. A tangerine blush and lip color on a client with blue eyes is really striking.”

Spring 2012 Makeover

This instructional makeover from Teresa Paquin, makeup artist and owner of Anika Skincare & Makeup Studio in Hudson, New Hampshire, includes two different ways to show clients how to apply bold, bright colors. Look 1 is for the client who dares to wear the beautiful, bright, playful colors this year without hesitation, and Look 2 is for the client who wants to remain in her comfort zone with neutrals, but wants to experience a pop of color and new life to her everyday look. Newlywed Hannah Ireland of Nashua, New Hampshire, helps demonstrate how to carry off these looks effortlessly.

Look 1

Step 1: Apply a treatment cream for combination skin over the face with fingers.

Step 2: Using a disposable lip brush, apply lip balm to lips.

Step 3: Using fingers, apply face primer over the face, then apply eye primer to the eyelids.

Step 4: With a small synthetic camouflage brush, apply a beige concealer to the under-eye area and blend well.

Step 5: Apply a water/gel mineral foundation to the face using a foundation brush, starting from the center of the face and working outward toward the hairline.

Step 6: Dust a pressed mineral foundation all over the face using a large kabuki brush to set the makeup.

Step 7: Following the natural shape of the eyebrow and using short, feathering, upward strokes, apply a dark taupe eyebrow pencil to the brow. With a small angled brush, apply a brunette eyebrow powder, using the same method as with the pencil. Top with a touch of brow wax to hold them in place and give them a natural sheen.

Step 8: Sweep a bold-colored eye shadow all over the eyelid up to the crease, and blend using a small chisel shadow brush.

Step 9: Sweep a soft ivory gold mineral eye shadow under the arch of the brow using a small chisel shadow brush.

Step 10: Using a small angled synthetic brush, apply a black gel eye liner to the upper eyelid.

Step 11: Apply three coats of black mascara to the upper lashes using a disposable mascara wand, followed by a very light application to the lower lashes.

Step 12: Using an angled blush brush, apply a deeper neutral blush for the contour, then a slightly brighter sheer neutral on the apples of cheeks.

Step 13: Fill the lips in with a neutral lipstick and top with the same color gloss, using a disposable lip brush.

Look 2

For the more natural look with a pop of color, replace Steps 8–11 from Look 1 with the following steps.

Step 1: Follow Steps 1–7 from Look 1.

Step 2: Apply a soft, neutral eye shadow to the eyelids using a small chisel shadow brush.

Step 3: Next, apply a soft ivory eye shadow under the arch of the eyebrow.

Step 4: Apply a bold, bright eye liner pencil in a thick line all the way across the upper lash line. Then, using a small angled brush, apply a thin line of dark sable brown over the bold bright color, staying close as possible to the eyelashes, so you do not cover the bright color, allowing it to pop through.

Step 5: Apply three coats black mascara to top lashes, and light application of mascara on the lower lashes.

Cosmetic products and supplies used in both Look 1 and Look 2 are from Beauty Addicts, Mirabella Mineral Makeup and TIGI.

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