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The New Alchemy of Multitasking Makeup

By: Emily Katz
Posted: March 28, 2011, from the April 2011 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
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Spa professionals so often come up against clients’ expectations and their concerns, including how they can get the most impact for their dollar and how they can minimize the amount of time they’re spending on skin care and makeup while still achieving an excellent result. Because of these concerns, the economic aspect that one product covers an array of results—which once involved an entire skin care regimen—is very appealing to clients. If the benefit of a leading-edge treatment is in a color product, why would you not use that? These products can actually be very effective, but it is up to you and your client to ascertain if you are seeking a temporary look or looking for a more cosmeceutical approach in color cosmetics.

Foundations and lipsticks have been the forerunning products that include additional treatment benefits, and now eye color products are taking on the hybridization, as well. The majority of these hybrid products address anti-aging, and it is becoming more and more important that companies substantiate their claims of efficacy with clinical trials. Following is information on a variety of makeup types and their common additional benefits.

Lip products. “Lip products with SPF and antioxidants plus peptide-enhanced formulas help hydrate, protect and minimize fine lines around the mouth,” explains Morris.

Eye products. “Eye shadows in cream or liquid bases often including anti-aging benefits through an emulsified formulation that a powder base does not allow for,” says Morris. Eye liner pencils with retinol target lines and wrinkles in the eye area, and technology in concealers doesn’t just cover, but actually minimizes puffiness, fine lines and dark circles. According to Hana Zalzel, president and founder of Cargo Cosmetics, “Botanical ingredients can be used to help reduce puffiness and dark circles by draining excess fluids and stimulating collagen synthesis to improve skin tone and firmness. Peptides and flavanoids work to reinforce the thin, fragile, transparent under-eye skin and help eliminate darkly pigmented by-products and oxidized blood cells, the root causes of darkness under the eyes.”

Concealers are other eye products that offer skin care benefits. “Concealers have the ability to provide multiple benefits. Not only is this feasible, but it is also a necessity. They are an ideal mechanism for transferring anti-aging, de-puffing agents and dark circle-reducing ingredients. Including these problem-solvers, the consumer really experiences both immediate gratification and long-term skin-improving benefits,” says Morris.