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A Season of Rebirth

Cathy Christensen March 2011 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
Spring 2011 color trends

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Arguably the most anticipated of the seasons, spring brings with it an air of new hope and new beginnings; it is a time to shed the baggage of the dreary winter and embrace the possibilities of new birth.

It was this attitude of rebirth that showed up on the runways during New York Fashion Week this fall, leaving makeup artists both impressed and intrigued by the cosmetic trends that ran the gamut from traditional smoky eyes and nude and pink tones to metallics, new matte lips and even neons. The biggest trend was that every fashion designer made individual choices in regard to makeup this year. “There wasn’t a yawn in the group,” says Emmy-winning makeup artist Kevin James (KJ) Bennett. “Spring 2011 was out-of-control crazy with color. It was everywhere, and it was bright.” According to Leatrice Eiseman, color expert and founder of the Eiseman Color Blog, “Coming out of winter and looking around at the world, you need color as a lift. This spring, color is going to be the quintessential makeup accent.”

As one of the premier colors of the season, Pantone Color Institute named Honeysuckle, described by Eiseman as a pink that is on its way to red, as its color of the year, setting the tone for a brighter season than in years past. But don’t let the brightness scare you, says celebrity makeup artist Christian Scott. “Just because it’s a trend, just because it’s what the gods of the fashion industry are putting toward us doesn’t mean those are the colors everyone has to wear. You can take elements of them,” he says. “For example, if orange doesn’t work, you can go off that and blend in other aspects, going into a beige-brown look and keeping the makeup soft.”

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Treatment Step-by-Step:Simple Spring 2011 Makeup Application

Celebrity makeup artist Christian Scott recently completed a photo shoot with Deena NicoleD.+Cortese+with+Spring+2011+makeup+look. Cortese, the new girl on MTV’s hit reality show Jersey Shore. According to Scott, “A lot of Spring 2011 trends apply to the makeup I did on Deena’s shoot. First and foremost is a clean, fresh, dewy, healthy-looking skin tone. Secondly, I think makeup is heading in a much more simplified direction, no matter what your client’s makeup style is. If she’s someone who is used to a heavy, black smoky eye with an extremely nude lip, then consider helping her bring that down a few notches and use warmer, lighter shadow tones and don’t use as much. If she’s someone who doesn’t wear much makeup to begin with, then perhaps focus on her skin tone to create an even luminosity and glow.”

Following is a step-by-step treatment from Scott to get Cortese’s spring look.

Products needed:

Concealer

Sheer mineral foundation powder with SPF

Mineral highlighting powder

Light, nude matte eye shadow

Dark brown eye shadow

Warm golden frosted eye shadow

Warm brown eye shadow

Black volumizing mascara

Peach-toned blush

White eye liner pencil

Neutral lip color

Clear lip gloss

Step 1: Begin application with a clean, exfoliated face. Apply concealer and sheer mineral foundation powder with SPF that matches the client’s skin tone to create an even, fresh, luminescent skin tone.

Step 2: Next, apply a mineral highlighter powder to create a perfect glowing, dewy skin tone without looking sparkly and cheap. Mix a tiny bit in with the mineral foundation to give an all-over glow, being careful not to add too much. You don’t want the client to look shiny or sweaty. Then add a little more on the top of her cheekbones to really give the appearance of lift. When the light catches this right, it looks amazing.

Step 3: Next, fill in and shape the eyebrows with a dark brown eye shadow. Use a very light, nude matte eye shadow just under the eyebrow and a golden frosted eye shadow on the lid for extra pop.

Step 4: A warm brown eye shadow in the outer creases of the eye was blended up and in toward the nose, leaving no visible, harsh lines. Blending and contouring are a big part of keeping this look fresh and soft. Sweep a small amount under the eye on the outer edges, as well.

Step 5: Apply white eye liner pencil on the bottom rim to really open up the eye. Concentrate more on the inner side of the eye to really make it pop. This is such a great tool for woman with smaller eyes. White eye liner is just not used enough and is the next big thing.

Step 6: Finish off the eye by applying jet black volumizing mascara only to the top lashes to really open up the eye.

Step 7: Add a peach-toned blush to the client’s face for color and contour. Of course, you’ve got to find the right shade of blush to match your client’s skin tone. Bring the blush down her natural cheekbones for contour and blend it out for a flush of color. Always sweep a little blush all over the face ever so slightly to keep the hue of the entire face congruent.

Step 8: Apply a lip pencil that is the same color as the natural lip over the entire lip, then apply a neutral lip color that is just slightly darker than the client’s natural skin tone with a little gloss on top to finish off this beautiful, clean, crisp look.

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