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A Season of Rebirth

By: Cathy Christensen
Posted: February 28, 2011, from the March 2011 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.

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Black mascara and lots of lashes are still all the rage. “Black mascara is always in, and false lashes are gaining popularity. A lash wardrobe continues to develop in women’s makeup bags,” says Mendelson. If your spa doesn’t already apply and retail eyelash extensions, gauge consumer interest in this offering to find out if this may be a profitable menu addition this spring.

Clean, even and fresh

As in winter, the complexion should be healthy above all else. “Your complexion should always just look clean, even and fresh. Heavier foundation should never come back in style,” emphasizes Scott. Katz concurs, saying, “There’s a lot of talk about good, beautiful, clean skin. That’s a basic requisite for good makeup.” And along with health, a complexion should also look alive. “This season, we are seeing a nude skin with a luminous finish. It can be sensual—almost wet—but not greasy. You want it to look like it’s got its juices running through it,” explains Mendelson.

Highlighters are also a component of this spring’s look. “Incorporate a highlighter or illuminating tint that can be worn under the foundation, or a face primer or liquid foundation for that healthy, dewy, glowing complexion,” advises Tatman. “A beautiful complexion starts off with foundation, and that is the way to hook makeup clients. Find a foundation that they love. Women have dozens of lip products, but very rarely will you find someone with multiple brands of foundation. Get a foundation on your clients that works for them and gives them that flawless look, and then you can really build on what they’re buying.”

Along with finding the right foundation for the client, it’s important to teach them how to make economical choices. “Advise your clients to buy the best full-coverage foundation that looks the best on their skin and dilute it as needed for whatever event they are attending,” says Bennett. “It is so much easier to have a full coverage makeup that you can dilute with primer or moisturizer; it’s much more versatile without having to buy more products. Consider advising your clients to mix their moisturizer into their full coverage foundation and it will be their favorite makeup and their favorite moisturizer.” Another trick of the trade that should be handed down to clients is a good foundation brush. “For consumers who really want to be able to put their foundation on in a professional way, sell them a foundation brush and show them how to use it. Teach them how to put on the least amount of foundation and build up if they need to. Get a line of foundation brushes to retail,” recommends Katz. Tatman agrees, saying, “Tools are a very big part of a flawless makeup application and should be of high quality. A good foundation and blush brush will last forever. Explain why you are using the tool you are using,”

Blush it up

“Fresh, clean, clear, sheer colors are being used in blush this season,” says Bennett. “It’s either a strong, clear pink or peach, or, for darker skin tones, a clear orange. It’s totally clear, not opaque.” As far as blush application is concerned, it depends on where you’re going, says Scott. “We’re in a period where we’ve seen years of trends behind us and can take from them and be OK,” he says. “If you’re going for that cute, fresh look, try a pink glow on the apples of the cheeks. If your client is going out at night and wants to look like a sex bomb, contour the cheeks. I think that’s why things are more fun this season.” According to Luque, he sees the apples-of-the-cheek look being the one for the future: “The trend is going to go back and forth with the nude look.”

Luscious lips