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State of the Cosmetics Industry, Part II

By: Rachel L. Chapman
Posted: September 25, 2008, from the October 2008 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
five tubes of lipstick

page 8 of 9

Preservation. A number of different microbes can invade a cream or lotion during processing or handling, so a well-built, multifaceted defense system to attack them all is one of the most efficient ways to defend cosmetics from contamination. Solutions formulated as preservative “cocktails,” such as iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC) or parabens, have been deployed for this purpose. But slowing this progress are barriers such as the recent Adaptation to Technical Progress ruling by the EU to restrict the use of IPBC, and the public’s mistrust of parabens.

Substantiation of preservative efficacy is one speed bump on the fast track to market since traditional preservative efficacy testing can take up to 56 days. The industry has focused on a means to shorten this process.

Color. Color palettes rotate with each season, but breakthroughs in color technologies seem less common than in other areas. In the past year or so, some developments have really stood out. One example is a co-precipitation process described for inventing new pigments, while another invention used metallic pigments to expand existing color palettes.

At the recent IFSCC conference in Amsterdam, an interesting pearl pigment was presented offering properties similar to snow for use in makeup. This area of fillers, surface effect materials and particulates is really growing in Asia and gaining momentum.

Occasionally, new treatments for existing pigments aid in stepping up innovation in color and improve on existing attributes, such as better dispersion or color deposition on skin, such as encapsulation treatments for organic colorants designed to mimic the look of natural skin. In addition, in consideration of new requirements for travel-sized personal care, a loose powder containing a high amount of liquid phase has been designed.