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State of the Cosmetics Industry, Part II

By: Rachel L. Chapman
Posted: September 25, 2008, from the October 2008 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
five tubes of lipstick

page 6 of 9

One study looked at a safer route to tanned skin through actives designed to create a self-tanning effect on skin by stimulating the synthesis of melanin in the skin, which not only protects it, but also provides the desired tanned look.

Slimming treatments incorporate actives that can address a number of targets in skin physiology, including enhancing the removal of fluid buildup by improving microcirculation to the areas in question; strengthening the connective tissue while protecting it from further degradation caused by inflammation and the subsequent release of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs); and targeting the adipose tissue via stimulation of adipocyte cell metabolism/thermogenesis or some other mechanism to decrease adipocyte contents—lipolysis.

Bringing a natural focus to actives, one study examined the survival strategies adapted by watermelon from growing under extreme conditions, such as drought, UV radiation and high salt concentration, and applied watermelon’s secrets into protective products for skin. In other work, slimming effects were studied and newer approaches using ingredients to achieve these effects were described, including a newer method of body contouring in the United States—mesotherapy.

Delivery. Without proper delivery, ingredients, such as actives, cannot perform as they were designed. Biomimetic tripeptides are one delivery vehicle that have been studied for improved dermal transport to help prevent wrinkle formation and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. In addition, nanomaterials have been designed “smarter” to deliver particles deeper into the skin.

Nanotechnology. Nanomaterials in all industries continue to drive innovation as well as concern—primarily for the levels of materials absorbed into the skin, but also into the environment.