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The 3 Stages of Hormonal Skin Care

Kris Campbell April 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
Clients with hormonal acne may also experience irregular menstrual cycles, hair loss, diabetes and infertility.

Clients with hormonal acne may also experience irregular menstrual cycles, hair loss, diabetes and infertility.

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Life expectancy for humans has doubled during the past 100 years. Because of this, clients living with skin affected by hormonal issues have to learn to manage them for a longer period of time. Hormones are the body’s chemicals that send signals between cells. They control and regulate many functions in the body, including temperature and blood pressure, and they support other diverse functions, such as growth, cell repair, metabolism, fertility and reproduction. The communication that a hormone has with organs in the body, along with other hormones, can also affect the skin of both women and men at various stages of their lives.

With all the skin conditions that can arise due to too many or too few hormones, skin care professionals must be aware of everything they can do to treat their clients, from the initial consultation to professional treatments to home care recommendations. Understanding the types of hormones that women deal with during the different stages will help skin care professionals when analyzing the skin. Side effects can be from one end of the scale with overly dry skin, to the other end—acne breakouts.

Understanding body chemistry

There are naturally occurring changes in body chemistry as people age, such as menopause. These changes can affect hormonal release from glands, thus disturbing their balance. Diabetes is another fairly common hormonal imbalance that occurs when there is not enough insulin, a hormone produced in the pancreas that affects metabolism. Hyper- or hypo-thyroidism is also quite common and is sometimes even detected in children. All these imbalances can manifest themselves in a wide variety of physical and emotional symptoms. Sustained hormonal imbalance can have severe—and potentially fatal—complications, so a diagnosis and treatment is critical for general health and well-being. The main hormones that affect the skin include estrogens, testosterone and thyroid hormones.

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Treatment How-to: Microdermabrasion Facial

Melasma, which is often a result of hormonal issues, can actually cause skin to become more sensitive to various treatments. By performing facials that are more gentle and hydrating/soothing in a series, results will take place without irritation or reactive skin issues. A series of 6–8 treatments is a good start with 5–6 weeks in between so as not to cause over irritation or inflammation. This calming, healing and restorative facial helps reduce inflammation and redness and decrease pigmentation while soothing, refining and refreshing skin texture and tone.

Duration: 50 minutes

Cost: $120

Contraindications: Warts, severe acne, rosacea, diabetes, autoimmune system disorders, recent surgery, broken blood vessels, cancer, active cold sores, tretinoin useage, isotretinoin in the past six months, open lesions, dermatitis and medications that cause photosensitivity

Supplies and equipment needed:

Warm, wet, aromatic towels or 4x4 cotton squares


Microdermabrasion machine

Cool water

Eye-mask brush

Eye pads

Products needed:

Gentle lactic gel wash

Hydration mist

Hydrating serum

Soothing eye gel or serum

Soothing, cooling mask

Natural brightening serum

Eye serum or moisturizer

Hydrating lip product

Moisturizer with natural brighteners

Physical sunscreen—SPF 30 or higher

Step 1: After doing a thorough consultation and skin analysis with the client, cleanse the face using a gentle lactic gel wash around the eye area, neck and décolleté. Remove with warm, wet, aromatic towel.

Step 2: Perform a second cleanse with the gentle lactic gel wash to de-grease the skin. Remove with warm towel or 4 x 4 cotton squares, then use tissue to remove any moisture from skin before performing microdermabrasion.

Step 3: Perform microdermabrasion on the entire face for using a microdermabrasion machine. This should take approximately 15 minutes.

Step 4: Rinse skin with cool water if using a crystal microderm to remove crystals.

Step 5: Perform extractions if needed.

Step 6: Refresh the skin by spritzing hydration mist onto the entire facial area.

Step 7: Appy a hydrating serum to soothe the skin.

Step 8: Apply a soothing eye gel or serum around the orbital ridge with an eye-mask brush, then apply eye pads soaked in cool water over the eyes.

Step 9: Massage face with a soothing, cooling mask that the skin will drink in to deeply hydrate for 10 minutes.

Step 10: Perform a neck and shoulder massage using massage oil or lotion for 10 minutes.

Step 11: Remove the eye and face masks using 4 x 4 cotton squares soaks in cool water.

Step 12: Refresh the skin again by spritzing the hydating mist onto the facial area.

Step 13: Apply a natural brightening serum to the face and, using your fingers, tap it into the facial skin until it is absorbed.

Step 14: To address the eye and lip area, warm a pearl-sized amount of eye serum/moisturizer on fingers, then apply to the outer eye area.

Step 15: Perform the same technique using a hydrating lip product and apply to the lips.

Step 16: Apply a moisturizer with natural brighteners to the face and, using your fingers, tap it into the skin until it is absorbed.

Step 17: Apply physical sunscreen of at least SPF 30 and tap into skin until it is absorbed.

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