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Identifying Inflammation

Annet King April 2010 issue of Skin Inc. magazine
woman with redness in skin

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A woman enters your retail space and asks if you have products for sensitive skin. The question is a reasonable one—her skin feels prickly, itchy, tight, dry in patches and may even bristle with red blotches.

The term “sensitive” is one that has been in the consumer vocabulary for decades, yet it’s generally used incorrectly and is misunderstood as the basis for both professional treatment and product selection. When clients say that they have sensitive skin, this declaration is your cue not only to treat and recommend products, but also to educate.

According to Diana Howard, PhD, vice president of global education for The International Dermal Institute, “Sensitized skin is a reflection of a client’s environment, lifestyle and physiology. Pollution, stress, hormones, cosmetics, climate, alcohol, diet, medical procedures and other factors can all lead to sensitized skin, which is defined as skin that displays a more reactive response to substances that are tolerated by the general population. It is now known that this condition is the result of three key factors: a compromised lipid barrier layer, traditional immune activity and the newly discovered neurogenic response in the skin, which is a newer area of research studying the effect of the nervous system, and its relationship to inflammation and sensitive skin. Although all of these factors contribute to sensitized skin, each must be addressed individually to control this condition; otherwise, continued exposure to the stressor can result in inflammation that can lead to more serious skin disorders and premature aging.”

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Ideal Anti-inflammatory Ingredients

Ingredients that are ideal for various aspects of the inflammation containment, recovery and prevention process include the following.

Boerhavia diffusa root extract (red hogweed). This stops the production of proinflammatory agents and limits neurogenic inflammation by favoring the production of the anti-inflammatory neurohormone MSH in order to restore tissue integrity.

Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract. This contains ceramides, which play an essential role in maintaining the integrity of the skin and ensuring the proper cohesion of skin cells, minimizing skin dehydration. It optimizes the skin’s protective properties.

Hydrolyzed algin. Derived from brown seaweed, this ingredient has antioxidant and film-forming properties that help with skin’s protective function.

Oenothera biennis (common evening primrose) oil. This is a skin nutrient high in gamma linoleic acid, and is a fatty acid that is also required for intact epidermal lipid bilayers.

Persea gratissima (avocado) sterols. This has lipid moisturizer functionality and is a rich source of natural plant phytosterols that help maintain the lipid barrier layer.

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