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Today's Hot New Ingredients

By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: September 3, 2013, from the September 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
Hot New Ingredients

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In vitro studies demonstrate this liposome-encapsulated peptide’s ability to decrease melanin synthesis better than arbutin and vitamin C. In a study of 23 Asian volunteers, Unipex claims a cream with 5% ß-White was applied twice daily for 56 days. After 28 days, ß-White reduced the appearance of pigmented spots by 21%. By day 56, pigmentation declined by 30%.

Under-eye flaw-erasers: Eyeseryl and Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin

Eye creams have become much more sophisticated during the past several years, largely due to one heavy-lifter of lids: Eyeseryl. This tetrapeptide from Lipotec has demonstrated a significant decrease in reducing puffiness under the eyes in as few as 14 days. By decongesting water accumulation and offsetting the very mechanisms of eye edema, Eyeseryl at a 10% concentration has been shown to improve skin elasticity by 30% in 30 days, according to Lipotec. Further, at a 1% concentration, Eyeseryl showed a decrease of dark circles under the eyes.

Another eye ingredient to watch—Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin—borrows tradition from the Japanese, who for centuries have regularly steeped citrus peels in hot baths. The fruits’ bioflavonoid content has long been revered for its body-warming and circulatory benefits. As a skin care ingredient, Alpha Glucosyl Hesperidin helps improve blood circulation to overcome dark under-eye circles formed as a side effect of stress and cold climates.

Typically, hesperidin alone is poorly soluble, meaning it doesn’t play well in formulations. However, proprietary technology from Hayashibara has led to a highly soluble form, which combines a glucose molecule with hesperidin to significantly up its solubility while retaining all the biological benefits. When this proprietary ingredient comes into contact with the skin, the a-glucosidase enzyme slowly releases the hesperidin, making the circulatory benefits bioavailable.

Don’t get left behind!

As scientists continue to better understand the interaction between nature, science and skin physiology, the plethora of anti-aging skin ingredients will continue to widen. Don’t get left behind! Stay in the mix with the most current research and development innovations.