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Today's Hot New Ingredients

By: Sam Dhatt
Posted: September 3, 2013, from the September 2013 issue of Skin Inc. magazine.
Hot New Ingredients

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Several years ago, stem cell manufacturers stirred the proverbial kettle with several savory new ingredients culled from plant stem cells. By definition, the very idea of stem cells intrigues with their blank canvases of undifferentiated cells ready to inscribe the next generation of healthy cell division.

The pickings are plentiful. From edelweiss and echinacea to gotu kola, plant stem cells perform a wide range of functions, including reducing wrinkles, strengthening immunity and even fighting acne.

For photoaging, buddleja davidii stem cells—and their active constituent, verbascoside—have proven worthy contenders in protecting the skin by helping inhibit inflammation, preserve collagen and fight free-radical damage. Sederma research demonstrates daily use of a 2% concentration of its Buddleja Stems GX to protect the skin against UVA damage, improve skin structure and fight free radicals. Don’t be surprised if you see this stem cell budding in sunscreens and moisturizers soon.

The cell organizer: Citrustem

Citrustem from Provital uses stem cells from oranges to help organize the inner structure of the skin, and improve elasticity and cell adhesion. According to the company, a study evaluating the effect of 0.1% Citrustem on 64 genes demonstrated this natural, sustainable active’s ability to increase the expression level of collagen VI, elastin and ADAMTS2, a gene that codes the conversion of N-propeptides of procollagen into collagen.

Citrustem has also demonstrated in vitro efficacy in stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts to increase collagen synthesis and other key elements of the extracellular matrix. The fruit of this latest innovation may also help the skin bear a quick recovery of the elasticity it once knew 12 years ago.

Restoring youth to aging cells: Progeline